The Part Time Gourmet

Perfect Tacos at Home

2006-07-27T12:39:00.000-04:00

*Blog Currently on Hiatus.

The New York Times had a great Taco series in their food section yesterday.

In recent months I've become something of a taco fanatic. Growing up, all I knew was Taco Bell, and the occasional stuff my mom would make with the Old El Paso kits. Marrying a woman from California has opened my eyes to what tacos and all Mexican food, really can be.

Mark Bittman as The Minimalist tells us how you can create authentic tacos in your own kitchen. He strongly recommends using corn tortillas, though in my experience, they're more prone to falling apart in your hand. The article tells us what ingredients make up the taco experience and what options you have.

In Taco Technique, Bottom to Top, Bittman gives us the proper method of building a great taco.

Briefly warm the tortilla on both sides in a dry pan. It will take on just a little color. Then, be sure not to overload. If you put too much in there, the stuff will fall right out. Start with the protein, not only because it’s the foundation but because as the heaviest component it belongs at the bottom; no more than one-third cup or so for an average four- or five-inch taco. I like to put the crunchy stuff, like lettuce, on next, for contrast; a small handful, as much as you can grab with your fingers, not your fist. Then the spoonable ingredients, or the sprinkles: salsa or crema, guacamole or crumbled cheese — whatever you like, but we’re only talking a tablespoon or two here.

There are a number of receipes in the series as well, which give you more authentic ingredients to add to your feast:

Slow-Roasted Pork for Tacos

Grilled Carne Asada for Tacos

Shredded Chicken for Tacos

Salsa Fresca

Shopping for Tortillas (In the New York area)

In my experience, I've found the Carne Asada beef at Trader Joes to be outstanding, as are their hand made flour tortillas. Make sure you get the hand made ones, there is such a difference between those and the regular ones that you won't believe it.

The Comeback of the Wooden Bowl

2006-07-20T10:41:00.000-04:00

We received a large wooden salad bowl as a wedding present. While the bowl is beautiful, we're actually a little imtimidated at the prospect of using it. What if we ruined it? Is it possible to ruin it?

The Arizona Republic this week has a look at the return of the wooden bowl. While it may remind some of the 1960's, the bowls are making a comeback in this Earth-friendly age.

The article mentioned that "gourmets" would rub a garlic clove in the bowl to season it before creating a Caesar salad for a dinner party...not a bad idea.

Here are helpful tips for caring for wooden bowls:

• Expect bowls to darken with age, with black cherry darkening the quickest.

• Like other wood kitchen products, the bowls must be cleaned and oiled properly.

• Bowls can be washed in hot water and soap, but not soaked in hot water, which causes the wood to expand.

• Also, do not put bowls in the dishwasher, microwave or oven. And store away from direct sunlight.

• When wood becomes dry, apply a thin coat of mineral or other oils created specifically for wood utensils and sold at kitchen stores.

• Well-preserved bowls can last for generations.

Perfect Fried Chicken

2006-07-19T11:46:00.000-04:00

Don't know how I did it, but I missed this terrific article from last week by Robin Mather Jenkins on the book Fried Chicken: An American Story and includes some great tips for making the perfect fried chicken at home.

Brine the bird. Add your favorite flavoring to the brine.
Marinate the bird. Season the marinade.
Create the crust. Season the flour generously.
Choose your pan. Cast iron means even heat and even browning.
Fry right. Fry in vegetable oil, but add a little bacon grease for flavor.
Cover it up.
Serve it forth. Sprinkle the cooked chicken with a dusting of spices for one last flavor hit.

I also gotta crib this recipe from the article and book for my own future use:

Fried Chicken

This recipe combines the best advice of the experts: brining for moist, juicy chicken; marinating in buttermilk for tenderness; seasoned flour for a crisp crust; and a little bacon grease mixed into the frying fat to add savory flavor. The brining and marinating mean you'll have to think ahead - start this recipe at lunchtime the day you'll set it on the table. Remember that the side you start frying a piece on will always look better than the other side. You may want to use two skillets for the frying.

Â 1 cup salt

Â 1 quart water

Â 1 chicken, 2-1/2 to 3 pounds, cut into 8 pieces

Â 2 cups buttermilk

Â 1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce

Â 1 cup flour

Â 1 teaspoon each: salt, ground red pepper, garlic powder

Â 4 cups vegetable oil

Â 2 tablespoons bacon drippings

Dissolve salt and water in a large bowl; add the chicken. Cover; refrigerate 3-4 hours. Pour off the brine; rinse the chicken well under running water in the bowl. Drain. Add buttermilk and hot sauce to chicken. Cover bowl; refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Combine the flour, salt, red pepper and garlic powder in another large bowl or food storage bag; drain the chicken pieces. Add 2 or 3 pieces of chicken to the bag; seal. Shake to coat chicken. Remove chicken to a rack; refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil to a depth of 12 to 34 inch; stir in the bacon drippings. Heat oil to 350 degrees, or until a drop of water spatters when it hits the hot oil. Add the drumsticks, wings and thighs, skin side down (the oil should come about halfway up the sides of the pieces of chicken). Cover; cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust on the side facing up, about 10 minutes. Turn; cook 10 minutes. Uncover the skillet; reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until chicken is golden brown, 5 to minutes. Remove drumsticks and thighs from skillet to a rack placed over a cookie sheet; place in oven.

Raise heat under skillet to medium-high. Heat oil to 350 degrees; add the breasts, skin side down. Cook until tiny bubbles begin to appear in the crust on the side facing up, about 10 minutes. Turn; cover. Cook 10 minutes; uncover the skillet. Lower the heat to medium-low; cook until golden brown, about 5 to 10 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

Grill the Whole Fish

2006-07-17T14:23:00.000-04:00

Kevin R. Convey in the Boston Herald offers some tips and advice on grilling an entire fish - a process he says puts more flavor into the end product because you're cooking the bone skin and flesh together, which adds much more flavor than simply grilling a fillet.

After ensuring that your fish is fresh (bright eyes, red gills, firm flesh) and pan dressed, Convey offers up the follow advice on cooking and serving from chef David Kamen:

When it’s time to cook, get the grill good and hot - gas is more convenient, charcoal or wood more flavorful - clean and grease the rods well with an oil-soaked paper towel held in a set of tongs, pat the fish dry, cut three or four diagonal slashes to the bone in each side, then season and oil it to reduce sticking.
DeRego recommends cooking whole fish in part over an indirect flame, which takes longer but is a bit more forgiving than Kamen’s direct-grilling method. But whatever method you choose, turn the fish only once - no pushing, prodding or flipping - and do so by slipping a long spatula under the length of the fish and gently rolling it over.
Kamen recommends 7-10 minutes per side, but urges cooks to check for doneness near the spine with a knife, looking for flesh that is just turning translucent and slightly flaky. More exact is a thermometer reading of 140-145 degrees near the bone. Remove the fish from the grill in the same way you flipped it, and remember that the fish will continue to cook once it’s off the flame.
To serve, run a sharp knife along the spine and belly of the fish, and then cut a line behind the gills and in front of the tail. Use a spatula to carefully remove the fillet, working from top to bottom. Pull the tail up to remove the skeleton, and then lift out the other fillet. To do this cleanly takes some practice, so be patient.

Taming a Tower of Recipes

2006-07-13T11:34:00.000-04:00

I once went to a house where the owner had an entire wall, (and it was a big wall) covered with shelves that were filled from top to bottom with cookbooks. This guy had cookbooks on every topic, style and method out there.

Most of us don't have the space to keep that many publications. I keep one shelf of books and a basket of magazines, which I have to go through every few months. I find mostly that I'm going online more and more when I'm looking for a technique or recipe.

Kathleen Purvis of the Charlotte Observer has her own system for keeping recipes and articles she finds in magazines:

A few years ago, I hit on a system that works for me. At an office supply store, I bought a large, sturdy loose-leaf binder, a pack of dividers with pockets, and a box of cheap plastic sleeves.

I could set up the dividers to match my life, rather than some preset order of dishes. So my first section is "slow cooker," followed by "family," "entertaining" and "potlucks."

Desserts are divided by cakes and cookies; breakfast is somewhere in the back, because it's rare when I have to cook something elaborate.

Using clear sleeves for pages lets me add clipped recipes after I've tried them. They can be removed and taken to the stove, and they're protected from drips.

The pockets on the dividers hold all those recipes that are waiting to audition.

Tips for Making the Most of Your Supermarket Visits

2006-07-11T14:50:00.000-04:00

It's easy to find yourself wandering aimlessly through the vast aisles of your local supermarket. Invariably, you can't find something, or end up forgetting a key item you really needed.

When you get to actually examining the items on the shelves...that can be just as confusing. What's good for you? What is bad for you, but is promoted as being good for you? How can you tell?

A recent article from Judith Weinraub provides some advice on navigating through the chaos. A few tips:

Don't go into the center aisles. But if you have to, don't buy anything with more than five ingredients, not counting vitamins. And if you can't pronounce an ingredient, don't buy the product.
Don't buy anything with a health claim -- they're misleading.
Don't buy artificial anything.
Don't buy anything with a cartoon on it -- these people are marketing directly to your child.
And if you're concerned about weight, don't buy soft drinks -- they're all calories and no nutrients.

Q:What about frozen dinners?
A: They violate the five-ingredient rule. Lunchables do, too. And Pop-Tarts.

Q:Even the controlled-calorie, low-fat frozen meals? Many people watching their weight rely on them.

A:They don't taste very good. Eating is a great pleasure. I'd rather try to keep control of the quantity I eat.

There are quite a few more in the article as well.

Making Ice Cream at Home

2006-07-06T12:36:00.000-04:00

Sometime this weekend, perhaps even tomorrow night, I'm going to do something I haven't done in at least four years...make Ice Cream at home.

The weather is hot and steamy, and I've had this Cuisinart Ice Cream maker staring at me from my kitchen shelves for months now. It's time it go some use. I went and put the inner bowl into my freezer the other night, and it will be good and frozen for when I put together the ingredients and turn it on.

The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette has a couple of articles on making home made ice cream this week, just in time for my foray back into the process of making this treat at home. The article is full of good tips on making ice cream at home, and includes this advice on ingredients:

The type of dessert you make will probably depend on individual preferences as well as what kind of fruit is in season. But also keep in mind that when it comes to choosing a recipe, the higher the butterfat, the richer (and some might argue, better tasting) the ice cream. Heavy cream, for instance, is a standard ingredient in premium chocolate and vanilla ice cream, and has 36 percent to 40 percent butterfat, while whipping cream has 30 percent to 36 percent and half and half has 10 percent to 18 percent. Whole milk, often used in gelato and "quick" ice cream recipes, has less than 4 percent butterfat. Similarly, use the best-quality bittersweet chocolate you can afford (semi-sweet will make the ice cream taste too sweet) as well as real vanilla beans instead of vanilla extract. For recipes that call for cocoa, Dutch-process cocoa, which is treated with an alkali to neutralize its acids, will provide a deeper taste and color.

There is also an article on how ice cream makers stack up, as well as a podcast with more advice on making this treat at home.

Beer Can Chicken - On The Grill

2006-07-03T16:28:00.000-04:00

I've tried beer-can chicken in the oven before, and it came out pretty good. The Houston Chronicle this week has an article on using the technique with your grill.

If you're unfamiliar with the basics of beer can chicken, here's the primer they offer you:

Beer-can chicken works on a simple principle: The can holds the bird upright so the heat roasts it evenly on all sides, and the beer (or other liquid) produces steam that keeps the meat moist. Indirect, medium heat from the grill produces a crisp, golden skin. A few crumbled bay leaves added to the beer will infuse the bird with a potent herbal flavor. Cooking a chicken this way also allows the fat to baste the meat as it drips away.

They also have a few tips for using your grill for the beer can chicken.

• A can of soda or juice can be substituted for the beer.

• Open the can with an old-fashioned church-key opener, puncturing it several times, rather than using the pull tab, to allow the maximum amount of steam to escape.

• Blot the chicken dry inside and out with a paper towel.

• Loosen the skin on the breasts and thighs of the chicken by sticking your fingers between the skin and the meat. Then massage a spice mixture on the skin, under the skin and inside the cavity.

• Use a skewer to poke the skin all over to render as much fat as possible.

· If you're using a gas grill, be sure to remove the warming rack. Otherwise it's bound to knock over the chicken when you open and close the lid.

• Keep an eye on the chicken, but don't open and close the lid too often. Every 25 to 30 minutes is sufficient.

A full recipe is also included.

Tips for Cold Suppers

2006-06-28T14:57:00.000-04:00

When the weather is steamy and muggy the last thing you might want to come home to is a hot dinner. Or maybe you want to have a picnic on the weekend, but don't want the usual sandwiches.

The New York Times has an article today looking at how to best prepare meats so that they can then be served cold. There are some good tips and principles to keep in mind when doing this:

...if the primary goal is to serve it chilled, the trick is to swab the meat with flavor — lots of chili powder, oregano, garlic, mustard and olive oil — before sliding it into the oven (roast it rare so it stays tender and juicy).

This works with vegetables as well:

The same applies to sturdy vegetables like green beans, carrots, broccoli, snow peas and celery. Simply cook them lightly, dress them intensely (with, for example, soy sauce, garlic, good olive oil, plenty of salt, pepper and lemon juice), and, given enough time for everything to meld, the salad will sparkle. One thing to bear in mind, however, is that the acid in the dressing will dim any bright green colors. Keep some fresh chopped herbs around to serve as a last-minute garnish.

Restrictions on Fluff?

2006-06-26T12:34:00.000-04:00

In another example of the East Coast - West Coast food gap, I was shocked to find that many on the left coast are unfamiliar with Fluff.

Growing up, a fluffernutter sandwhich (Peanut Butter & Fluff) was a special treat - usually to be enjoyed only at my grandmother's house, as my mom didn't want me having sugar.

To this day, I still enjoy one occasionally, and when my wife and I were combining our households prior to our wedding, she wondered what the container to the left was, and why I had it.

I couldn't, and still haven't convinced her to try a fluffernutter, but I'm confident she'll give in someday.

More disturbing is a motion recently proposed by a Senator in Massachusetts (the home of Fluff) to limit the availability of fluffernutters in school lunchrooms to once a week. Now it might be similar to the thinking that my mother had, that too much sugar is a bad thing...but I was also hyperactive as a child. (No one who knows me now can believe that...)

Another legislator promptly introduced a bill proposing to make the fluffernutter the official state sandwich.

Developing Your Wine Palate

2006-06-23T16:12:00.000-04:00

It can be embarrassing, frustrating and annoying to be tasting wine with others, and while they go on about black cherry, or currant or gooseberry or honeysuckle tones in the wine, while you struggle to find any comparisions that you can use to describe what you're tasting.

Len Napolitano tells us that developing your palate is a process that can take years.

He offers some suggestions about what you can do to develop your tasting skills.

Learning to appreciate fine wines starts with identifying the prominent flavors and components in a wine, whether they are individual fruit flavors, or degrees of sweetness, acidity or tannin. Evaluating how they all balance out overall on your palate is part of this step. Over time, you begin to know what to expect from a cabernet sauvignon versus a pinot noir, for example.

He adds:

The process of identifying fruit flavors and components can be enhanced by also thinking about the wine's personality and style. Consider the wine's power from alcohol, its texture on your palate, how quickly, or not, the flavors present themselves and how long they linger afterward. Store these impressions into your wine memory bank. The next time you taste a cabernet sauvignon, think back to your impressions of previous tastings of cabernets. Ask yourself if your general impression of the wine is better, worse or the same as most other cabernets that you've tasted.

Homemade Pot Stickers

2006-06-22T13:41:00.000-04:00

I'm ashamed to admit...I've only recently come to really appreciate the delicious packets that are pot stickers. Of course, here on the East coast, all the restaurants seem to refer to them as "Peking Ravioli" - a rediculous name if I ever heard one, and likely the reason I never really gave them a chance.

However, having connections and family on the West coast has set me straight. I love these things. Getting good ones out East remains a challenge. The frozen ones from Trader Joes (called Gyoza - which is Japanese) are pretty good, but you know they're frozen.

In the Seattle Post Intelligencer this week, Food editor Hsiao-Ching Chou shares her receipe and techniques for making pot stickers at home. Completely from scratch.

I need to make sure to save this one, because I'm going to try it for sure. She warns though, that the recipe is more of a rough guide rather than a standard:

When making the dough, for example, the ratio of flour to water may not be 2 to 1 as suggested. Since the weather can affect how a dough comes together, you will have to determine whether the mixture is too wet or dry and add flour or water to adjust. The stated cooking time for the dumplings is 7 to 9 minutes. But, it may be more depending on how evenly your stove and pan distribute heat.

Even so, she reminds us that pot stickers are essentially peasant food, something just about anyone should be able to make these. Some other tips I gathered from the article:

Use fresh pork. It can't be the least bit rancid, or else cooking will intensify the off smell and flavor.
Use Napa or Chinese cabbage, not regular green cabbage. Hand chopped, not processed.
Use a vegetable-based oil. Don't use olive oil, as the olive flavor doesn't meld well with the pot stickers.

In addition to the pot sticker recipe, she also provides a recipe for a soy dipping sauce...

Another Perfect Steak Recipe - This Time Without the Grill

2006-06-20T15:32:00.000-04:00

Philip A. Stephenson in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette offers still more suggestions on cooking the perfect steak. He gives you tips on selecting a great cut of meat, and then gives some tips for preparing a great steak, without a grill. Here's a few:

Take the meat out of the fridge in advance. Don't cook a cold steak. It will cook unpredictably.
Oil the meat and not the pan. Put other seasoning on the steak, but don't salt it. He says salt leaches moisture from the cut. The time to put salt on, according to Stephenson, is just prior to serving.
Preheat your oven to 450 degrees.
Take a cast-iron skillet and put it on medium-high heat. He says:

Let it get hot enough that a drop of water doesn't sizzle, but instead skates and bounces over the surface of the pan. Then take your oiled, room-temperature and seasoned (just pepper is fine, actually, but spice rubs are good) steak, and place it in the pan. You might want to put it over to one side of the pan, so that when you turn it (45 seconds or so later) you have a fresh surface, which will not have been cooled by the cooking of the first side.

It is strongly recommended that you use tongs or a spatula to flip the meat. Don't pierce it with a fork. After flipping it the first time, let it sizzle for 20 seconds, then turn the heat to medium and let it sit another half-minute or so.

Then take the pan and place in your preheated oven on the center rack.

Leave it for 2 minutes, flip once more and cook for 3 minutes. Given a 11/2-inch thick cut, it should be medium.

A great sounding technique, just watch for smoke and be sure not to set off any alarms...

Grilled Steak Tuscan style

2006-06-19T16:08:00.000-04:00

The Culinary Institute of America offers some tips for grilling your steak Tuscan style.

I'll keep this advice in mind, as we're planning a two week trip to Tuscany in the fall of 2007.

The basics for a T-bone steak bistecca alla fiorentina:

Sprinkle it with salt and pepper, rub it with garlic and rosemary, and drizzle it with olive oil and fresh lemon juice as it comes off the grill.

They recommend grilling over indirect heat, and explain why here:

"Since the heat is less intense there, foods like thick steaks that take longer to cook or items like vegetables that might scorch before they finish cooking can finish grilling without turning black. "To gauge the heat level, count how long you can hold your hand 1 inch above the grill before it becomes too hot. One to 2 seconds means high heat, 3 to 5 seconds means medium, and 6 or more means low."

A formal receipe for the Tuscan style grilled T-bone follows the article.

100 Simple Tips to Healthier Eating

2006-06-16T14:21:00.000-04:00

Chris Rosenbloom has compiled a list of what he calls "100 of the simplest and most practical tips around for healthful eating".

The tips are broken down into the following categories:

Tips to sneak in more fruits and vegetables
Tips for increasing fiber
Tips to fuel an active lifestyle
Tips for smart snacking
Tips to keep your food and family safe
Tips for eating out
Tips to manage your weight
Tips to reduce your risk of chronic disease
Tips for serious athletes
Tips to feed the teen machine
Tips on raising healthy babies

Use Spices to Add Flavor and not Fat

2006-06-12T14:11:00.000-04:00

An article from Family Circle has some tips on using spices, and gets specific on what spices are going to really improve the taste of your food.

• Chili powder -- Capsaicin, found in chile peppers, works as an appetite suppressant. Capsaicin has also been shown to be an effective anti-inflammatory, a potent antioxidant and a promising cancer fighter. Sprinkle chili powder on tomato soup, macaroni and cheese or corn on the cob, or add hot sauce to eggs and omelets. • Garlic -- Garlic has earned fame as a powerful health helper. It's rich in organosulfur compounds with high levels of antioxidant activity and releases the antibiotic allicin when chopped or crushed. Sprinkle chopped or crushed garlic on pizza; or roast whole cloves and spread on a loaf of bread instead of butter. • Rosemary -- This "pine-y" flavored herb boasts high levels of antioxidant activity, thanks to two powerful free-radical eliminators -- carnosol and rosmarinic acid. Research shows that rosemary may help fight cancers of the breast, lung and skin. Mix it in an aromatic marinade for grilled chicken; spruce up stuffing with a couple of teaspoons or use fresh sprigs as skewers for shish kebabs on the grill. • Curry powder -- Turmeric, an ingredient in curry powder, contains curcumin. This phytochemical helps thwart cancer by "switching off" proteins that cause cells to multiply and by inducing cancer cells to self-destruct. The spice may also reduce risk of Alzheimer's disease, psoriasis and arthritis. Add it to bean-based soups, stir into plain yogurt for an exotic dip or sprinkle on pineapple slices and grill for a tasty side dish.

The piece also looks at Oregano and Cumin.

Gourmet Sausage Roundup

2006-06-09T14:47:00.000-04:00

This article by Noah Rothbaum originally appeared in the Wall Street Journal, but I just found it today.

It seems people are buying and grilling few Hot Dogs and turning to Sausage more and more. The author decided to test out a number of the top brands of gourmet sausages that are available for order.

I found this part interesting:

First, we learned a trick. Before the grilling started, the chef placed most of the sausages in a pan of warm (but not boiling) salted water for a couple of minutes, and then crisped them on the grill. The water bath helps kick off the cooking, reducing the time on the grill. The longer it's on the flame, the higher the risk that the casing will burst -- and if that happens, the expert said, "you lose all the juiciness."

Lobel's came in first in their testing. The brands that they tried out and how you can order and learn more about them are listed below:

Lobel's Four-Pound Variety Pack, $58.98, lobels.com, 877-783-4512
Allen Brothers, Our Sausage Sampler, $49.95, allenbrothers.com, 800-957-0111
Dean & DeLuca, Grilling Sausages, $40, deandeluca.com, 800-221-7714
Nueske's, Favorite Links Sampler, $22.95, nueskes.com, 800-392-2266
Virginia Traditions, Edwards Smoked Sausage Sampler, $19.95, virginiatraditions.com, 800-222-4267

Building a Better Salad

2006-06-06T11:56:00.000-04:00

If you're like me, eating salad every day gets old quick. No matter how resolved you might be to eat better, after a week or so, eating those greens with a few tomatoes and cucumber dressed with some reduced fat or fat free product get to you. You'd like something a little more...substantial. What are your options without completely falling off the wagon?

An article this week on kitsapsun.com gives you some suggestions and tips for improving that salad of yours.

The author tells you to forget you've ever heard of iceberg lettuce. Instead go for some of the more vibrant leaves:

To make a great salad, try to create a balance of mild, piquant, bitter or astringent, and peppery or spicy flavors. Try a butterhead such as Boston or bibb or a red or green leaf lettuce for the sweet taste. Add mustard greens such as mizuna or tatsoi for a piquant taste, add radicchio, escarole or curly endive for a bitter or astringent taste, and add arugula or watercress to get that peppery or spicy flavor.

So there's your lettuce, what about the rest of the salad? Here are some more suggestions:

Garbanzo beans, sunflower seeds, walnuts, hard-boiled eggs and leftover chicken, steak or tuna add protein and other nutrients, and cheese adds both protein and calcium. Tomatoes contribute vitamin C and lycopene, as do green, red or yellow peppers, which also contain vitamin A and other antioxidants. And, of course, fresh herbs such as basil, oregano, chives and dill can brighten vinaigrettes and other dressings, although herbs and garlic should be strained out after a day or so to prevent development of an acrid taste if the vinaigrette is to be kept in the refrigerator for several more days. If you are using fragile ingredients, such as hard-boiled eggs, bean sprouts or avocado, add them after tossing the salad and just before serving, or you will mix them into a mush. A week's worth of more durable ingredients - such as meat, cheese, radishes, peppers and carrots - can be sliced or grated ahead of time and kept refrigerated to make packing a salad for lunch a faster and easier job. I also use only cherry or grape tomatoes in packed-lunch salads, to prevent the accidental creation of a batch of gazpacho in my salad container.

The article ends up with some more seasoning tips, and also has a couple salad recipes.

Supper swapping: Tips help save time and money

2006-06-05T12:42:00.000-04:00

The South Mississippi Sun Herald has some tips on Supper Swapping.

What is supper swapping, you ask?

It is a concept based on the book to the left, which outlines a plan where friends can take turns cooking dinners and then swapping leftovers. Here are some tips from the book which the article in the paper reprinted:

Plan smartly - Use recipes that won't overburden you on your day to cook. And if one meal is time-consuming, make the other a quick-fix meal. Save smartly - Similarly, if you want to make an expensive meal, pair it with an inexpensive dish. Make substitutions to economize - For example, if crab is costly, try using imitation crab. A chef would frown on it, but it could mean the difference between $3 a pound and $20 a pound. Substitute less expensive fish - Tilapia, for example, is quite inexpensive when compared to bass or other similar fish. Don't compare what you spend with what your partner spends - Trying to split costs can be messy. It penalizes you for being thrifty. Shop specials - It pays to watch for ads. For instance never pay full price for salmon or pork loin if they go on sale regularly. Freeze extra for future uses. Buy basics in bulk - Costco or Sam's can make sense when the groceries needed are basic. Buy the best you can afford in kitchen accessories - For example, a quality spatula that can withstand 500 degrees can be used without melting or warping in hot sauces or in the dishwasher. A large food processor can cut food prep time in half.

Kitchen Gadgets as Gifts

2006-06-02T16:57:00.000-04:00

As someone who recently got married, I received a number of kitchen gadgets as wedding gifts. Some we had registered for, some came as a surprise. I was pleased with all of them.

Stuck for ideas beyond the basics? Amy Culbertson in the Fort Worth Star-Telegram has an article on how to select some nifty gifts which will please the cook on your shopping list.

She writes:

To develop this gift list, I consulted with kitchen-store owners, picked the brains of fellow cooks and made a steely-eyed survey of my own kitchen-gadget habits. A few trends: Color is big, eclipsing the serious, no-nonsense stainless-steel/black look that was the height of kitchen cool a couple of years ago. And silicone -- also in hip new colors -- is showing up everywhere from rolling pins to rainbow-hued spatulas. My gift list -- all under $40, many way under -- starts with basics for budding cooks who are just beginning to build a battery of equipment, and moves on to goodies to enhance the kitchen arsenal of those closer to the Martha Stewart end of the spectrum.

There are also different levels, from the basic and indispensible to the gadgets for the kitchen of the serious cook. Some great tips and ideas in here!

From Amuse-bouche to Wagyu beef

2006-06-01T13:32:00.000-04:00

How many of you knew what the items in the title were?

If you didn't, don't be embarassed. The Seattle Times has published an article that defines all sorts of unfamiliar food items you might come across on a menu these days.

The author, Nancy Leson tells of a experience she had:

Taking me at my word, I soon had her paying homage to a gorgeous filet of Columbia River sturgeon à la plancha with braised oxtail lentils du puy and leek fondue. Yes, she loved it, though pointing to the tiny black orbs garnishing her sturgeon, she wondered, "What's this?" Taking my fork to her fish, I rendered a verdict: "Tapioca pearls dyed with squid ink."

Other items that the article defines for you:

Beluga lentils
Burrata
Confit
Day-boat scallops/Diver's scallops
Guanciale
Hanger steak
Kurobuta pork
Mâche (aka lamb's lettuce, field salad, corn salad)
Marcona almonds
Paddlefish caviar
Panna cotta
Saba
Squid ink
Togarashi

Tips for Southern Cooking

2006-05-30T11:08:00.000-04:00

The Sun Herald in South Mississippi has a look at the new book Deep South Staples by Robert St John, and provides this list of 10 tips from the book as a sample of the handy ideas and hints that you will receive from this publication which promises to show you "How to Survive in a Southern Kitchen Without a Can of Cream of Mushroom Soup."

Here's the ten tips from the article:

Deviled eggs: In order to avoid deviled eggs that are too large for the mouth, use the smallest eggs possible, then after boiling, cut a nickel-size slice from each end to stabilize them. Halve the eggs crosswise, not lengthwise, to make them small enough to eat gracefully.

Vidalia onions: Because of the high sugar content, Vidalia onions spoil easily; always store them so that they are not touching each other.

Exfoliate: Use rough textured bathing or exfoliating gloves to quickly and easily clean root vegetables such as potatoes, carrots and beets.

Baking powder: In order to test the potency of baking powder, mix 2 teaspoons into a cup of water. If it fizzes or foams immediately, it is OK. If the reaction is at all delayed, buy a fresh can.

Fried chicken: Putting several pieces of celery with leaves into the oil when frying chicken produces beautifully colored and better tasting fried chicken.

Boiling water more quickly: Speed up the process of boiling large quantities of water by boiling water in two pots, fore example, a half-full stock pot and a second pot with the balance of the water needed. Both will boil more quickly and continue to boil when the second is poured into the stock pot.

Freezing ground beef: When freezing ground beef, place about 1 pound of fresh ground beef in a zipper-lock bag and flatten with a rolling pin. This way, when you are ready to use it, the thinner meat is easier to break off if you don't have to thaw the whole thing. (And the flat beef thaws more quickly if you do.)

Stuffed peppers: Two ways to keep stuffed peppers upright during baking are to put them in a tube pan to ensure a snug fit, or in a muffin tin to prevent sliding.

Keeping a cookbook flat: Put a clear glass Pyrex dish on top of open cookbooks to keep them flat, readable and clean while cooking.

Separating fat from drippings: To separate fat from pan drippings, pour all the liquid from the roasting pan into a glass measuring cup. Carefully slip a transparent bulb baster beneath the layer of fat and pull out the juices into the baster.

Heading Down Under

2006-05-02T19:37:00.000-04:00

This blog is going to be on a bit of a Hiatus for the next few weeks. I'm getting married this weekend and we're spending our honeymoon in Australia.

I'll be photographing and writing about the experience, as we'll be getting paid for writing a few articles about our various adventures and scenic trips while going around the country. We'll be spending a few days in Cairns, then heading to the middle of the country to see Ayers Rock (Uluru). No, there's not a McDonald's on top of the rock, that's a bit of an in-joke, I guess. Near Ayers Rock, we'll having dinner under the stars, which should be a great experience. We'll also be going to Sydney and going out to the Hunter Valley Wine country for a day as well.

If I find some internet access, I'll post some photos of the various dining experiences we have.

Dilemma: What wine to pair with Doritos?

2006-05-01T13:40:00.000-04:00

Sometimes you want to settle in with a snack and some wine, but don't happen to have any artisan cheese, foie gras and chilled caviar on hand. Bill Daley says this isn't a problem.

He asks a number of Chicago-area wine experts for their favorite wine pairings with ordinary, everyday snack foods that might actually have on hand in your house.

Here's a few examples:

Doritos with a "big, sloppy" zinfandel works for Tracy Lewis Liang, wine director of Treasure Island foods. Snyder's of Hanover pumpernickel and onion-pretzel sticks with a Carneros pinot noir makes for a happy Robert Owings of Arlington Height's Vintages. Garrett's buttered and cheese popcorn (heated in the oven and drizzled with truffle oil) with any sort of sparkling wine pleases Brian Duncan, wine director of Bin 36 restaurant. And, for me, (Daley) lightly salted goldfish crackers swim winningly with everything from New Zealand sauvignon blanc to California syrah to Spanish Rioja.

The article goes on to mention that Champagne actually goes very well with pizza, chips and many other everyday snacks. At the end of the article, Daley gives the best pairings:

THE SNACK: Popcorn THE WINE: Perrier Jouet Champagne Grand Brut The buttery sweetness of the popcorn flattered the bubbly, matching the Champagne's sweeter, more aromatic notes. $36 THE SNACK: Potato chips THE WINE: 2005 Girard Sauvignon Blanc The salty but light crispness of the potato chips were a perfect foil to the lush, grapefruit-like flavor of this California white. $18 THE SNACK: Peanuts THE WINE: 2004 French Rabbit Chardonnay The funky depth provided by the peanuts helped fatten up this French white's thin, herbal character. $11 (1 liter tetra-pak) THE SNACK: Peanuts THE WINE: 2004 Georges DuBoeuf Chenas This Beaujolais was a light sipper with plenty of summer cherry flavor. Again, the richness of the peanuts helped boster the wine. $14 THE SNACK: Popcorn and potato chips THE WINE: 2003 Wild Horse Zinfandel Paso Robles Everyone's favorite on its own, this peppery, smoky zin needed little help from the snacks. Some thought the popcorn provided a mellow match while others thought the potato chips worked best. $15

Buying Coconuts? Here are some tips.

2006-04-27T15:51:00.000-04:00

I don't think I've ever actually purchased coconuts in a store. Out East here, I haven't come across much use for them, but when the time comes that I branch out and try using them as part of a recipe or something, I'm not sure how I would know which one was a good one.

Thankfully this article from Donna Pierce gives us some tips on what we want to be looking for. Here are a few of them:

• Buying tips

Coconuts are available year-round. Although coconuts in their brown, hairy shells are the most familiar to shoppers, young coconuts without shells are becoming more frequently available in supermarket produce sections and specialty markets. To find the freshest fruit, hold and shake coconuts; choose those that are heavy and sloshing with juice.

• Storing suggestions

Store unshelled coconuts at room temperature for up to six months. Refrigerate grated fresh coconut meat up to four days, or freeze up to six months.

• Cooking suggestions

To open shelled coconuts, pierce the soft "eye" spots with an ice pick to drain the juice. Then "tap all around the hard shell with a hammer until it cracks and falls away," Onstad suggests. She also recommends heating the coconut in a 350-degree oven for 30 minutes, "at which point the shell will easily break away."

Super Foods Return

2006-04-26T11:09:00.000-04:00

If you've been coming to this site for any period of time, you're aware that we have a thing for "Super Foods". The Seattle Times indulges us again today with a listing of the top 12, as well as some "New superstars" (at the end of the article). It's all so terribly exciting to see so many superheroes gathered together in one place.

1. Beans

Why? High in folate, fiber and antioxidants, beans can help lower cholesterol and LDL levels, scavenge free radicals, moderate insulin levels and reduce cancer risk.

How much? Eat two ½-cup servings a day of cooked or canned beans.

2. Blueberries

Why? A true nutritional powerhouse, blueberries provide more antioxidants than any other fruit or vegetable. Phytonutrients include anthocyanins, chlorogenic acid, ellagic acid, catechins and resveratrol, substances that fight cancer, heart disease and age-related memory loss.

How much? If possible, eat 1/2 cup fresh or frozen or 1/4 cup dried blueberries every day. Eat any type of berry at least three times a week.

3. Broccoli

Why? Cruciferous vegetables are loaded with antioxidants. Broccoli contains cancer-fighting sulforaphane, indoles and carotenoids plus beta-carotene, lutein and zeathanin that promote eye health and ward off macular degeneration.

How much? Eat 1/2 cup raw or 1 cup cooked broccoli every day.

4. Oats

Why? Oatmeal's mighty nutrition profile.

How much? Eat at least three servings of whole grains a day. A serving equals one cup cooked oatmeal, 1/2 cup uncooked rolled oats or 1/4 cup steel-cut oats.

5. Soy

Why? An important source of vegetable protein, soy also contains isoflavones, estrogenlike substances that protect and maintain bone strength. Soy also contains important omega-3 fatty acids, which promote heart health.

How much? Eat one serving of soy foods a day. The size depends on the form of the food. Try edamame for snacking out of hand.

6. Spinach

Why? Spinach contains more than a Popeye-sized dose of iron. When it comes to antioxidants, it's packed with carotenoids such as beta-carotene and lutein for eye health.

How much? Eat at least 1 cup cooked spinach or other dark leafy green vegetable a day.

7. Sweet potatoes

Why? Loaded with beta-carotene, sweet potatoes boost the immune system. They also reduce cholesterol buildup in the arteries and help fight age-related macular degeneration and a variety of cancers.

How much? Eat at least one 1/2-cup serving of sweet potatoes or other beta-carotene-rich produce (carrots, butternut squash, pumpkin and orange bell peppers) a day.

8. Tomatoes

Why? Tomatoes contain lycopene, plus a range of beneficial phytochemicals that protect against heart attack, cancers and age-related macular degeneration. Cooked tomatoes contain more lycopene than raw tomatoes.

How much? Eat one serving a day with a little bit of healthy fat, such as olive oil, to help absorb the lycopene. Serving sizes are one medium raw tomato, about 1 cup cherry tomatoes, 1/2 cup sauce, 1/4 cup puree, 2 tablespoons paste or 6 ounces juice.

9. Walnuts

Why? If you're looking for an excellent source of "good" polyunsaturated fats, walnuts are one of the few plant sources high in omega-3 fatty acids. Walnuts are the only nuts that contain ellagic acid, a cancer-fighting antioxidant. The amino acid arginine can reduce the risk of heart attack.
How much? Eat 1 ½ ounces of nuts per day. One ounce equals 14 walnut halves.

10. Wild salmon

Why? Wild salmon contains large amounts of omega-3, a fatty acid that reduces the risk of heart disease and heart attack by lowering blood pressure and bad cholesterol. Omega-3s also reduce inflammation that triggers arthritis and autoimmune diseases.
How much? A serving is just 3 ounces, roughly the size of a deck of cards, or 1/4 cup canned. Eat 12 ounces a week.

11. Extra-virgin olive oil

Why? The monounsaturated fats of olive oil are considered "good" fat that reduces cardiovascular disease, lowers blood pressure and prevents some types of cancer.

How much? Eat 1 tablespoon most days.

12. Dark chocolate

Why? Dark chocolate has the highest antioxidant content of any food. The darker the chocolate, the higher the count.

How much? Eat a 1-ounce serving daily. Also, try grapes, red wine and green tea, which are high in polyphenols, which boost good cholesterol. In addition to dark chocolate candy, try raw cocoa nibs. Although somewhat bitter, they have an intense, tannic flavor, like wine.

The power of potatoes

2006-04-25T13:32:00.000-04:00

"Potatoes can be mashed, smashed, hashed, baked, double baked, boiled, roasted, scalloped, fried, and french fried.

But wait, there's more! They can be an ingredient in salads, snacks, soups, pancakes, gnocchi, pierogi, pie and even vodka."

This is how Sandy Thorn Clark opens her article on Potatoes in the Chicago Sun-Times of last week.

In the article are a number of recipes for potatoes, as well a lot of tips and tricks for handling, storing and cooking spuds.

One recipe is for Morton's Lyonnaise Potatoes, which are described thusly:

With the baked potato slices coated in bacon grease, Rook adds a pile of sliced Spanish onions, producing an intoxicating aroma. Rook performs his magic, flipping over the golden brown potatoes and transparent onions while remarking, "The real trick is getting the potatoes and onions done at the same time. You don't want the onions to burn before the potatoes. You have to pay attention for the 12 minutes or so you are preparing lyonnaise."

Here are also three tips for great mashed potatoes:

Q. How can you avoid gluey mashed potatoes?

A. America's Test Kitchen suggests it's in the preparation. If the milk or half-and-half is stirred into the potatoes before the butter, the water in the milk or half-and-half works with the starch in the potatoes to make them gluey and heavy. When butter is added first, the fat coats the starch molecules and prevents them from reacting with the water in the dairy product. The result is smoother, more velvety mashed potatoes.

Q. What are other recommendations for successful mashed potatoes?

A. When preparing mashed potatoes, the Idaho Potato Commission suggests placing a quarter of a lemon in the cooking water to prevent the potatoes from breaking up, and cooking them in their skins to prevent water logging. After cooking, pull the skins from the end of the potatoes to remove easily. While mashing, gradually add butter and warm milk to the potatoes to gauge consistency. Then season.

Q. What is the best way to boil potatoes?

A. Potatoes should be scrubbed (rather than soaked) and boiled in their skins to retain nutrients. Potatoes should be placed in the cooking water before it is heated. To prevent potatoes from discoloration, add a touch of lemon juice to the water. To enrich the flavor of potatoes, boil in a favorite stock or for a mild, sweet taste, boil in milk. Remove skins as soon as the potatoes are cool enough to hold.

Eight Spring Seasonal Beers to Check Out

2006-04-20T16:12:00.000-04:00

Kerry R. Callahan in the Hartford Courant reviews eight seasonal beers, He notes that at this time of year, there are traditionally three beers that really fit in with the spring season, Bock, Doppelbock and Kolsch. Of these he says:

Bock, German for "goat," is a medium- to full-bodied lager, cold-conditioned at length and known for its smooth texture and even, subtly changing flavor profile. Doppelbock, first brewed as Lenten sustenance by German monks, is a sort of bock concentrate, rich, hearty and quite potent. Kolsch represents Cologne ale brewers' answer to the pilsner brewers who, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, were gobbling up market share. Like pilsner, Kolsch is light in body and color and hopped to be fresh and clean, although not terribly bitter.

He then reviews eight seasonal beers.

S'muttonator ( 4 stars, Pictured, Brewed in my hometown, so I'm partial)

Copper Hill Kolsch (3 stars)

Highland Fling Spring Ale (3 stars)

Lagunitas Imperial Red Ale (4 stars)

Harpoon Kellerbier (3 stars)

BBC Maibock Lager (3 stars)

Cerveza Cacao (2 stars)

HofbrÃ¤u Maibock (1 star)

Shakespearean Cuisine

2006-04-19T13:52:00.000-04:00

The Boston Herald today offers a glimpse inside an intriguing cookbook entitled Shakespeare’s Kitchen.

They tell us : Psychologist and food history expert Francine Segan has reawakened Elizabethan tastes with the beautifully illustrated “Shakespeare’s Kitchen: Renaissance Recipes for the Contemporary Cook” (Random House, 2003), which teems with savory re-creations and adaptations of meals created for Queen Elizabeth I, King James I and their contemporaries. By researching several cookbooks from the late 1500s to the early 1600s, Segan opens a fascinating window onto what people of that era ate and their thoughts on cooking and entertaining. In recipes that range from Renaissance rice balls to salmon in pastry, we discover that Elizabethans used fresh or dried fruits as flavoring and a wide array of herbs and edible flowers for texture and flavor.

The article also offers a couple of sample recipes from the book. Seems like a pretty interesting idea for a cookbook, and with his birthday lined up for this Sunday, the timing for checking it out is pretty good too.

While hunting down a photo to use with this post, I came across this very interesting website, which also examines the food and cooking of that time period.

Tips for Spring Produce

2006-04-18T16:17:00.000-04:00

From an excerpt in "Fields of Plenty," by Michael Ableman.

ASPARAGUS: Look for compact tips and smooth green stems that are uniform in color down the length of the stem. Check the cut stem end for any signs of drying and always avoid withered spears. Trim the stems and stand them in a glass with 1-2 inches of water. Cover with a plastic bag and refrigerate up to three days.

BROCCOLI: Store, unwashed, in loose or perforated plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator. Broccoli left unrefrigerated quickly becomes fibrous and woody. Wet broccoli gets limp and moldy in the refrigerator, so wash it just before using. Store fresh broccoli in the refrigerator three to five days.

RHUBARB: The deeper the red, the more flavorful the stalks are likely to be. Medium-size stalks are generally more tender than large ones, which may be stringy. For storage, first trim and discard the leaves. Freshly harvested stalks can be kept in the refrigerator, unwashed and wrapped tightly in plastic, for up to three weeks.

STRAWBERRIES: Use strawberries as soon after purchasing as possible. Berries should not be left at room temperature for more than a few hours. Store unwashed berries loosely covered with plastic wrap in the coldest part of your refrigerator for two to three days at most. Do not wash berries until ready to use. Do not allow berries to sit in water -- they will lose color and flavor.

More in the article...

Still Got Some Eggs Left?

2006-04-17T16:40:00.000-04:00

Rachel Marshall in the San Francisco Chronicle has a number of ideas ans suggestions for what to do with any eggs you might have leftover from this weekend. She goes through a number of quick egg dishes which are traditional and some have religious connections as well.

Omelets

While no American breakfast or bunch menu seems complete without a long list of omelets, the French deserve credit for refining the dish. Derivations of the word omelet can be traced back to Roman times. Ancient records describe eggs being beaten with milk and honey, then quickly cooked and folded over before serving.

Quiche

One of the most appealing aspects of a quiche is the combination of textures. The crispy pre-baked crust provides nice contrast to the creamy filling, which can include anything from just diced vegetables to bacon and Swiss cheese, the traditional ingredients in a Quiche Lorraine. The Crab and Asparagus Quiche (see recipe) makes good use of sweet asparagus, and if you add crab and Gruyere, it's as though spring has arrived.

Souffle

Another egg-based favorite, the traditional French souffle, has changed little over the years, except to become easier to master.

Tamago (Japanese Omelets)

The Japanese add a little sugar, dashi and soy sauce to eggs for their version of the omelet: tamago. Unlike the classic American omelet, the tamago is not filled. The thin layers of egg are cooked until just set in a rectangular pan, then neatly rolled up. sweet and salty notes complement the subtle flavor of the egg. Served at breakfast, it is also a popular addition to bento lunch boxes.

Tortillas and frittatas

Baked egg dishes find their place in the tapas bars of Spain and on the table for brunch.

The word tapas comes from tentempié, or snack, a light nutritious bite to eat that would sustain workers between meals. The Spanish tortilla uses egg to bind potatoes and herbs and spices. Tapas bars serve it at room temperature in little wedges throughout the day.

Look to Mexico for flavors to transform brunch

2006-04-14T15:25:00.000-04:00

You might just have some extra eggs around this week. (Not sure why) Even if it's just a normal weekend, Wolfgang Puck offers up a tasty looking recipe for using some of those eggs you have on hand and giving them a bit of a mexican flair.

One of the main secrets to the success of this recipe is to take a little extra care when cooking the eggs. Most cooks just crack them right over the frying pan, which can sometimes lead to broken yolks; and then they cook them completely on top of the stove, which often produces rubbery whites and yolks that are unappetizingly hard. Instead, I first crack each egg separately into a small bowl before slipping it into a heated pan in which I've melted butter with a little oil over medium heat. I season the oil-butter mixture with salt and pepper before the eggs go in, too, which actually transfers more of the seasonings' flavor to the eggs. Then, once the whites have begun to set, I finish cooking the eggs in the oven until the yolks are heated through but still fluid. The result is a much more delicately textured fried egg than anything you'll find in the standard coffee shop.

I've recently become hooked on huevos rancheros. This little cafe makes a terrific version which I've tried to duplicate at home with middling success. They take a toasted tortilla and top it with Black Beans, the eggs, then a sauce topped off with guacamole and sour cream. Outstanding!

A primer on meat cuts

2006-04-13T15:02:00.000-04:00

The Seattle Times has a good look at the different cuts of meat, broken down by section.

It's helpful if you're cooking lamb this weekend, but the cuts apply to any animal.

The article also provides cooking techniques to match any of the cuts that you choose to go with.

Coffee artists grind toward national title

2006-04-11T12:20:00.000-04:00

An article from Kathleen Purvis in the Charlotte Observer looks at the U.S. Barista Championship, held at the Specialty Coffee Association of America's national conference in Charlotte.

The championship started Friday with 50 competitors, including several from the Carolinas. No Carolinas baristas made it to Monday's finals. But they could have, says Taylor: "Carolina locals have really improved. This area is coming up." In the contest, the stage was set up with three stands to re-create coffee bars. Each had a three-spout espresso machine, a grinder loaded with specially chosen beans, a work space and a bar. Four judges stood behind the bar, waiting for baristas to serve them 12 drinks in 15 minutes. "It's supposed to be the five-star dining experience," said Taylor. Four sensory judges taste the coffee, looking for flavor, aroma, consistency, presentation and temperature. Two technical judges get in closer, looking for cleanliness, technique and machine operation. Judge Brent Fortune, owner of Crema in Portland, Ore., was finished with his duties, so he sat with us to explain the action: Arm position is important. When baristas put ground coffee in the handled filter, they have to shape the mound just right, then flatten it. "Water's lazy," Fortune explains. "It wants to find the shortest route." So the grounds must be even. Then, baristas press the grounds down with a tamper. This action is vital. A barista makes this movement over and over for hours. Do it with your arm at the wrong angle, and you can eventually hurt yourself. Plus, it takes 30 to 40 pounds of pressure to press the grounds firmly. So you have to have your arm straight, with your elbow over your wrist. "This is the stuff we geek out about," said Fortune. "There's a lot of science."

Some other tidbits and information:

*Cappuccino is harder to make than espresso. For espresso, you just need great coffee and the proper grind. For cappuccino, you need great coffee and great milk. • "A big part of the cappuccino is the texture of the milk." At the U.S. Barista Championships, most finalists used certified-organic whole milk. • Steaming brings out the sugar in milk, giving cappuccino some sweetness. The balance between the milk and coffee is important. Fortune looks at how far down the milk foam extends. • "Latte art" is when baristas top cappuccinos with a pattern in the foam. (see above right) • A traditional pour is topping cappuccino with a circle of foam. Judges want to see a brown tinge of espresso all the way around the cup, "so no matter where you sip, you get coffee flavor."

Debunking wine myths

2006-04-07T11:23:00.000-04:00

In an article in the Chicago Sun-Times this week, Brian Duncan takes some time to debunk a few common wine myths.

Among the myths on the list is the commonly held one that screw-off caps are automatically a sign of a low-class wine.

The makers of Screw|Kappa|Napa (pictured to the left) will no doubt be happy that Duncan debunks that myth, noting that more and more winemakers are moving the screw caps, because among other things you avoid potentially tainted corks.

By the way, I have an open bottle of their 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. Good stuff.

Among the other myths debunked on the list:

You need to decant every wine before you drink it -- or at least open the bottle an hour before serving.

"Not every wine. The act of pouring a wine begins the process of aerating the wine. Therefore, pouring it into a glass does the same thing that a decanter would do."
You should NEVER place red wine in a refrigerator or cooler, but always drink it at room temperature.

"Red wines are at a disadvantage when served at room temperature. Alcohol is exaggerated at room temperature and makes the wine 'hot,' causing an unpleasant harshness in the throat. Lighter red wines like Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Beaujolais benefit from being served at slightly cooler temperatures."
If you can't finish a bottle of white wine the next day or red wine within two or three, you might as well pour it out.

"Never just pour it out! Buy an inexpensive Vacu-Vin pump & stopper."

Good tips to keep in mind...

Successful Slow Cooking

2006-04-05T15:37:00.000-04:00

Here are some tips from an AP article on getting the most out of your slow cooker:

• No stirring is required.

• The stoneware should be two-thirds full for best cooking results.

• Any recipe can be cooked on either high or low; cooking time will vary.

• The best size for one or two people is a 3- to 4-quart slow cooker; for three or four people a 3 1/2 - to 4-quart slow cooker, and for five to seven people a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker.

• Try to use fresh herbs and spices. They take longer to release their flavor than dried herbs and spices and are better equipped to withstand extended cooking times

Coarse Salt...Grey Salt...Table Salt...?

2006-04-04T12:46:00.000-04:00

Kathleen Purvis is asked what the difference is between coarse and grey salt.

If you watch cooking shows, especially Michael Chiarello, you've heard them refer to Grey Salt. If you're confused about the difference between the types of salt, these paragraphs may prove helpful.

Coarse salt usually refers to kosher salt. It has larger grains than table salt. It's often used in brining (soaking food in salt water) because it dissolves easily. Kosher salt also doesn't contain iodine. Iodine has been added to table salt since the 1920s, for thyroid health. Today, gourmet stores also sell sea salts from around the world. Sel gris, or grey salt, is sea salt from Brittany. French fleur del sel, literally "flower of the sea," is a salt that blooms on sea water. Whether these salts have a different taste is debatable. But one thing they offer is texture. Sea salts usually come in flakes. Chefs use them as finishing salts, sprinkling them over food just before it's served to add crisp texture and bursts of salt flavor. You wouldn't want to cook with sea salt. It's expensive -- some cost as much as $21 for a package -- and it loses that flaky texture when it dissolves.

More on Fairmount Bagels

2006-04-03T15:59:00.000-04:00

Last Friday, while in Montreal, we found our hotel was close to the famous Fairmount Bagel factory. I had first heard of them while reading a recent issue of Gourmet magazine which highlighted the food of Montreal.

We went and visited the factory (right) and took out two dozen bagels. Here is some of their history, as described on their web site:

In 1919, Isadore Shlafman arrived in Canada and opened the first bagel bakery in Montreal. It was located at the back of a lane, just off of Saint-Lawrence Boulevard, which was then known as "The Main". This is where Montrealers got their first taste of bagel, rolled by hand and baked in a wood-fired oven. This was the very first bagel bakery in Montreal. In 1949, Grandfather Isadore move from Saint-Lawrence Boulevard over to Fairmount street. He bought a charming little cottage, and proceeded to knock down the back wall of the house, and built his bagel oven right there. He and his family lived upstairs, and when Grandfather Isadore went to work, he went downstairs and baked the bagel right there in his house. His son, Jack, learned the art of baking bagels and joined the business. They continued the tradition of rolling their bagel by hand, and baking them in their wood fired oven's. Since they were now located on Fairmount street, they renamed the bakery "The Original Fairmount Bagel Bakery". Today, the family continues to make their bagel using the same traditions and methods that Grandfather Isadore brought to us from the old country. All the bagel are still rolled by hand, and are baked in our old fashioned wood burning ovens. New bagel are introduced only once the texture and consistency would meet Grandfather Isadore's standards. His grandchildren still manage the business today.

The bagels were still warm when we got them, and were chewy and delicious with a smear of cream cheese...

Fairmount Bagels - Montreal

2006-04-01T13:25:00.000-05:00

Whipped or Mashed Potatoes?

2006-03-29T14:26:00.000-05:00

Or are they the same thing?

In a special to the Chicago Tribune, James P. DeWan offers up some tips on avoiding a gluey, stiff or lumpy flavorless mess when trying to make Whipped or Mashed potatoes (which for all intents and purposes are the same thing).

He recommends using russet potatoes, though any white or yellow potatoes will work ok. You can either bake (in a 425 degree oven) or boil the potatoes until they are tender. If you boil them, leave the skins on and start them in cold water.

Steps for whipping As always, we control the process. Here, we're adding butter and cream until the potatoes reach the desired consistency. Don't worry about amounts; instead, follow the progress as you add more and more. 1. Pass the hot potatoes through a ricer or food mill (photo 1). This "potato puree" is the basis for many wonderful preparations. If you prefer a lumpier (I mean, more "rustic") final result, use a potato masher instead. 2. Add room temperature (not melted) butter (photo 2) and hot liquid: cream or milk, even stock. Just remember, the richness of your ingredients is passed to your final product. Figure about 1/4 cup each butter and liquid for every pound of potatoes. To be safe, start with half that amount, and be prepared to add more. Then add any other flavoring or seasoning ingredients (see below). 3. Mix until smooth with a spatula. If you're using a stand mixer, use a paddle attachment if you have one and avoid overmixing, as that breaks down the starch, making your potatoes gummy. Steps to flavoring 1. Be sure to add enough salt: about a teaspoon of kosher salt or 2/3 teaspoon table salt per pound. Most people skimp on salt out of health concerns. Seriously, though, the fury you'll feel over underseasoned potatoes will raise your blood pressure far more than the salt you're trying to avoid. 2. Black pepper, while delicious, creates suspicious black specks in your otherwise pristine product. You may want to use white pepper, or just skip it altogether. 3. Potatoes take very well to other flavors: roasted garlic, avocado, minced rosemary, horseradish, chipotle chilies, wasabi--the list is endless. The amount is your call. One caveat: Make sure any added vegetable is cooked properly. You don't want your silky mash marred by the harsh crunch of a piece of, say, raw onion.

Steak yesterday, potatoes today...

Picking Perfect Steaks

2006-03-28T14:30:00.000-05:00

Found this fantastic article from the Washington Post after it had been syndicated to other papers. I don't know how I missed it the first time around.

With so many cuts of steak available to consumers now, they offer up 11 tips from experts on how to pick the perfect steak.

· Pick out your steak like you pick out your clothes.

· Look for thick cuts.

· Don't trim that fat.

· Behind the glass or on the shelf? Sometimes it's the same meat.

· Chuck and Round are tough guys, Rib and Loin are not.

· Know your grades. (Prime is best, followed by Choice and then Select)

· Be wary of fancy brand names.

· Enhanced? Natural? Organic? Know the difference.

· Want a perfectly cooked steak? Buy a thermometer. (125 degrees is rare)

· Try this two-step trick for cooking steaks.

This is an old restaurant method and a practically foolproof way to make sure your steak is not overcooked. It works particularly well with a two-inch thick, boneless steak such as filet mignon. Sear the steak on one side in a hot, oiled pan on the stovetop over fairly high heat. This creates a nice brown crust. Flip the steak over, then place the pan in a 425-degree oven to finish the cooking. Roast to desired doneness (about 5 minutes for rare, 7 minutes for medium rare, 9 minutes for medium), depending on the thickness of the meat. Let the meat rest for 5 minutes to redistribute juices before serving.

· And the award for Best Steak goes to . . . the rib-eye.

3 ways to roast a chicken

2006-03-27T14:20:00.000-05:00

This article from Erica Markus appears on the Charlotte.com website, though it appears it originally appeared in Newsday.

She tells us one of the pitfalls that many people encounter when it comes to roasting chicken:

Chicken is made up of two types of meat that cook at different rates and are considered "done" at different temperatures. Dark meat needs to get to 180 degrees; breast meat is best at 160 degrees. The shape of the bird isn't conducive to even cooking -- it's thin in some places, thick in others, with protrusions of different dimensions and a big hole in the center.

To get around this problem, she has instructions for roasting chicken three different ways, and says all you need is olive oil or butter, salt and pepper and a 2.5 to 4 lb bird. The methods which are detailed further in the article are these:

Cast-iron chicken

Butterflied roast chicken

Rack-roasted chicken

What's in a Pan?

2006-03-24T16:18:00.000-05:00

For two people setting up a household, the choice of pans might not be high on the list of priorities to be settled. Judith Weinraub in the Washington Post looks at a young couple getting married later in the year and deciding on a strategy for selecting what cooking equipment they're going to register for and need in their Kitchen. Some excerpts:

Russell Shultz, a bridal registry consultant at Bed, Bath and Beyond, where the couple has registered, asks his clients questions before they select a single pot. The first: "Do you like to cook?" is quickly followed by "What do you like to cook?" For example, if he's helping customers who like to cook traditional dishes, he guides them to stainless pots and pans or infused anodized aluminum cookware. "They do a better job of searing meats and caramelizing" sauces, he says. When clients are more inclined to low-fat cooking, he often steers them to nonstick cookware, "because very little fat is needed." Shultz asks lifestyle questions, too, such as whether people are willing to wash pots and pans by hand (as Vincent and Saputo are). "Some people don't want anything they can't put in the dishwasher," Shultz says.

Some more advice from another shop owner:

Nancy Pollard, owner of La Cuisine, a specialty cookware store in Alexandria, counsels customers to choose only equipment that suits their cooking style. Cookware is often sold in beguiling sets that cost less than buying the pots and pans individually, but the sets "aren't designed with individual cooking needs in mind," she says. "You might be the kind of cook that needs three saucepans the same size, but never the tiresome casserole in the wrong size that seems to be included in almost every set."

Flank Steak - Strictly for Home Use?

2006-03-23T11:48:00.000-05:00

Lisa Zwirn in the Boston Globe has a look at a cut of steak that is very common in the supermarket, but one that you don't see often on restaurant menus. The cut is the Flank Steak, which is a favorite for grilling and used often in quesadillas and other Mexican food. She talks to eecutive chef Jay Murray about the cut:

The flat cuts like flank and skirt steak, which are typically chewier and fattier but quite flavorful, don't have the same cachet as the expensive steaks. ''People think they're sacrificing to get flavor," says Murray. There's one more strike against flank steak: its flat and squat shape, which won't win it any beauty contests. ''Even when it's tender it doesn't have the same texture or bounce that a strip steak or tenderloin has," says the chef. At home, however, the flavorful slab of flank is a favorite.

The article goes on to recommend using a garlicky dressing for marinade to make the meat a little more tender and then grilling or pan frying the steak over very hot heat. It's best served at medium rare or even less cooked.

This recipe is also included:

2	tablespoons red wine vinegar
1	tablespoon olive oil
2	cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4	teaspoon dried oregano
1/4	teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1	flank steak (about 1 1/2 pounds)
	Kosher salt, to taste
2	tablespoons canola oil

1. In a baking dish large enough to hold the steak in a flat layer, combine the vinegar, oil, garlic, oregano, and pepper. Turn the steak in the marinade a few times, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

2. Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet (cast iron works well, but not nonstick) over high heat for 3 minutes or until hot. Sprinkle the steak liberally with salt. Add the oil to the skillet and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Carefully add the steak -- it will sizzle loudly.

3. Cook the meat for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on thickness, turning once, for medium rare. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let it sit, loosely covered with foil, for 5 minutes.

4. Hold a knife at a 45-degree angle to the steak and cut across the grain into thin slices. Arrange the slices on a plate and pour any juices from the cutting board over the meat.

Inside David Ortiz's Fridge

2006-03-22T11:15:00.000-05:00

Rachael Ray talks with Red Sox slugger David Ortiz about what is in his fridge.

RR:...You have tons of fruit and lots of broccoli, avocados and tomatoes. That fruit that looks like a coconut, what is that? DO: They call it mamey. The juice looks like carrot juice, but it's a little thicker and it tastes really good. You mix it with milk, ice and sugar. RR: That sounds good. I'll have to check it out. Hey, how's the seafood in Boston compared to home? DO: It's really good because Boston is right next to the ocean. In America I have this guy who gives me any kind of seafood, anytime.

Swordfish Goes Good with....Cheese?

2006-03-21T11:15:00.000-05:00

Steve Manfredi in the Syndney Morning Herald notes that when it comes to Italian cuisine, we don't often think of fish and cheese as going well together. He says Swordfish with a sharp, mature cheese can make a very good match.

He also tells us some other things that go well with Swordfish:

Swordfish is good with

Lemon and lime; butter and extra virgin olive oil; firm cheeses such as parmesan and pecorino; herbs, especially coriander, parsley, fennel, basil, oregano, rosemary; spices such as cumin, paprika, cayenne pepper, fennel seeds and black pepper; chilli; garlic; fish sauce; soy sauce; sambal; vinegar; capers; olives; bitter salad leaves such as sorrel, rocket, radicchio and endive.

Following that are two quick recipes. "Marinated swordfish with endives" and "Swordfish baked in bread with pecorino"

Sounds good.

Lidia says don't be a slave to the recipe

2006-03-20T13:49:00.000-05:00

One of my favorite PBS cooking shows is "Lidia's Family Table". I find the show very warm, easygoing, and the recipes tempting.

In the Washington Post last week, Lidia answered a few questions from Bonnie S. Benwick.

When asked for a first bit of advice, she says:

Don't become a slave to the recipe. Follow it the first time, yes. But after that, don't worry so much about the measuring. Really.

Then there is some more advice when it comes to fixing your mistakes when cooking Pasta:

Speaking of Italian, give us a fix for a pasta-cooking mistake.

Here are two: If you have oversalted the pasta-cooking water, immediately run some hot water from the faucet and add it to the pot with the pasta [still] in the cooking water. Add plenty of water, finish cooking and drain.

If you have oversalted the sauce, take raw, peeled potatoes and add them to the sauce (when they're cooked, remove them); they should absorb some of the extra salt.

Ridiculously simple and crazy good

2006-03-16T16:19:00.000-05:00

Amy Scattergood in the LA Times offers up insanely good dishes that are a snap to make.

What these are are actually "one liners". They're recipes...methods more like...that only take up a single line or paragraph. (Perfect for a PART TIME Gourmet. Ha!)

A few:

Halibut Provençal. (pictured) Film a frying pan with olive oil, sear halibut fillets on one side, then flip and add a can of diced tomatoes, minced garlic and shallots, capers, olives and a dash of balsamic vinegar.

Penne with Italian sausage and greens. Brown the meat from four Italian sausages (removed from the casings) in olive oil, add one bunch of rapini that's been blanched and roughly chopped, along with a little chopped garlic, toss with penne and lots of grated Parmesan.

Salmon with cannellini. Sear salmon fillets on one side, flip and add minced garlic, a can of cannellini beans (drained), two bunches of arugula and freshly ground black pepper.

Roasted potatoes. Quarter peeled potatoes, toss in a roasting pan with olive oil, salt, pepper and thyme and roast for an hour, stirring once or twice.

Baked stuffed apples. Core apples, stuff with raisins, cinnamon, brown sugar and butter and bake for an hour.

Krispy Kreme Hamburgers

2006-03-15T13:00:00.000-05:00

Illinois team counts on calories to draw attention

The Gateway Grizzlies of the Frontier League promised to create "Baseball's Best Burger" in time for the team's opener in late May. And they appear to have succeeded. The ballpark sandwich will include a hamburger topped with sharp cheddar cheese and two slices of bacon -- all between a "bun" made of a sliced Krispy Kreme Original Glazed doughnut. If you can find a (loop)hole in your cardiologist's advice, calorie counters predict the monster will set you back about 1,000 calories and 45 grams of fat.

I'm speechless.

Pinot Noir Festivals?

2006-03-14T16:02:00.000-05:00

A little ways back we mentioned that Merlot sales had dropped since the movie "Sideways" came out. This week in the LA Times they note that since that same movie came out, sales of Pinot Noir have skyrocketed.

In fact, Corie Brown notes that there are no less than 12 festivals dedicated to the grape and wine around the world.

A little about the wine from the article:

Pinot Noir is a single variety red wine from Burgundy, but there is nothing "hearty" about it. Perhaps more than any other wine, it reflects terroir. The soil it grows in, the weather and the touch of the winemaker are all in the glass, according to Allen Meadows, America's foremost authority on Burgundy. "It is its sense of originality, of each wine's uniqueness that makes Pinot Noir distinct from other wines," says Meadows. That also makes it difficult to find a great bottle. Fans call it an ethereal wine and wax on about the expansive array of red fruits, spices and herbs they taste in the glass. But it's an unforgiving wine, and an unsuccessful version can unleash harsh flavors of unripe vegetables or heavy gobs of cooked fruit. It's a wine that can cost $200 a bottle and still be a disappointment.

I'm still amazed that a relatively small movie can have such a profound effect on an entire industry.

East Coast vs. West Coast Chinese Food...

2006-03-13T16:06:00.000-05:00

Is it me, or is the Chinese food on the East Coast, specifically New England, inferior to that which you can get on the West Coast?

I've been amazed recently at noticing how different the styles are. The cooking, and even terminology of each coast is very different. It seems that West coast has a lot more Mandarin and Cantonese dishes, while the East has more Szechuan cooking.

We went to a famous Chinese restaurant just outside Boston last week, and asked for Potstickers. The waiter had no idea what we were talking about. We did eventually find them, but they are "Peking Ravioli". He had never heard them refered to as "Potstickers". We were aghast.

Noodle dishes seem to be different as well, with the East seeming to rely more on the crunchy, dried noodles that you can get from a can in the grocery store.

One theory we talked about was that the East Coast is actually behind the West coast in terms of how long this style of food has been around. Chinese were coming to the West coast, the San Francisco area since the Gold rush of California in the 1840's. Perhaps the East just hasn't caught up as much?

I probably shouldn't put the whole East coast as a blanket statement, I know New York City has good Chinese food. But it's interesting to make the comparisons.

The Unglamorous Pork Shoulder Becomes a Feast

2006-03-10T12:39:00.000-05:00

Virginia Phillips in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette has a terrific article on Pork Shoulder, which she describes thusly:

It's cheap. It's fatty. It's ugly as a box of rocks. This part of the pig is insensitively known as the pork butt, and it deserves a better name.

I went to the meat counter of a gourmet grocery store last year and asked for a pork shoulder, because I was going to make some slow-cooked pork for use in tacos. The man behind the counter dismissed me with "We only have high-end cuts of meat here."

Sorry.

In the article, Phillips offers tips for slow cooking a pork shoulder at very low heat. She also offers up a couple of suggestions for what to do with the leftovers:

Pulled pork: There's nothing simpler than gently reheating leftover pork, shredded with a fork, in a good bottled barbecue sauce -- Bullseye and Bone-Suckin' Sauce are recommended. Pile on a bun with coleslaw.

Build a taco: On a soft flour tortilla, spread refried black beans, homemade or prepared, a generous spoonful of shredded pork, pickled purple onion or jalapenos, and some avocado slices. Roll up, heat gently in the microwave and serve with fresh tomato salsa.

The latter is similar to what I was trying to accomplish with the shoulder I attempted to purchase above. I ended up getting the meat at Food Lion.

Rating Irish Whiskey

2006-03-09T15:19:00.000-05:00

This is NOT Scotch...get it right, people!

Eric Asimov has review of Irish Whiskey in the New York Times. A lot of people might think "Scotch" when "Irish Whiskey" is mention. This article will set you straight, noting that:

In its purest form, Irish whiskey has a fresh, lightly fruity, almost meadowlike aroma and flavor that is entirely its own. In general, it is lighter in texture than most Scotches. We sensed these qualities in most of the whiskeys that we liked best, yet today it is difficult to find whiskeys that might have been recognized as Irish 150 years ago.

The article also rates some Irish Whiskey in terms of a best overall and a best value. Here are the best of the ones that they sampled, noting that these need to be enjoyed on more than just St Patrick's Day.

Bushmills Single Malt 10 Years Old - $35

Midleton Very Rare Blended 2004 - $125 (Top rated of List)

Knappogue Castle Single Malt 1994 Very Special Reserve - $35

Connemara Peated Single Malt Cask Strength - $59

Clontarf Single Malt - $30

Bushmills Black Bush Blended - $28

Kilbeggan Blended - $15 (Best Value)

Bushmills Single Malt 16 Years Old - $60

Redbreast Blended 12 Years Old - $42

Tullamore Dew Blended (750 ml.) - $40

I think a sampling of my own might be in order...

Trader Joe's Mania Hits New York

2006-03-08T14:48:00.000-05:00

The grocery store chain with a cult-like following is ready to take on New York City, with their first store there opening on March 17th. The day has been anticipated for months by some New Yorkers, who had to adjust to life without the unique products offered on the shelves of the California-based chain.

Julia Moskin in the New York Times gives New Yorkers an introduction to the company, with information on the background of the company and what is involved in making and selecting the products which appear on the shelves. Food goes through a tasting panel which meticulously examines every proposed new addition to the stores, tasting and judging with great care.

She also has an article on New Yorkers who have moved into the city from areas which had Trader Joe's stores and how they crave their favorite items, and how they will go to any lengths to obtain them.

She also provides a list of the 10 most popular items sold at Trader Joe's:

*Charles Shaw Wines ("Two-Buck Chuck")
Mandarin Orange Chicken (frozen)
*Nuts About Antioxidants Trek Mix
Lite Shredded 3 Cheese Blend
*Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Trader Darwin's High Potency Chewable Multiple Vitamin & Mineral Formula Dietary Supplements
Crumbled Gorgonzola Cheese
*Dark Chocolate Covered Espresso Beans
*Trader Giotto's Pizza 4 Formaggi (Four Cheese Pizza)
*Cheese & Green Chili Tamales (in corn husks)

*Items which I've had from Trader Joe's.

This reminds me...I need to make a trip to Peabody store very soon, I'm almost out of coffee, Olive oil, frozen fish fillets, and blue corn chips.

It's time for the high flavor diet

2006-03-07T10:42:00.000-05:00

Bill Daley wants to kick off National Nutrition Month by trying to change the mindset of those who associate the word diet with tasteless, non-fat, low calorie, no-carb cardboard. He suggests rethinking your food to be more wholesome, home cooked, and seasoned with ingredients that pack a punch flavor-wise, but go light on their impact on your body.

He lists out seven ingredients for making your food more flavorful...but taking it easy on your waistline:

Balsamic vinegar Balsamic vinegar, made mainly from trebbiano grape juice, gets its intense flavor and silky texture from aging in wooden barrels. The better the vinegar, the longer it has been aged and, typically, the higher the price--but also the higher the calorie content. For everyday use, lower-priced brands will do fine; they generally have 5 to 15 calories per tablespoon. "Vinegars in general are a great pantry item to add big flavor without adding lots of fat and calories," said Jim Romanoff, author of "The Eating Well Healthy in a Hurry Cookbook." "Most supermarkets have phenomenal selections of vinegars." He suggests having sherry vinegar, red wine and white wine vinegar and cider vinegar on hand. "It's something that keeps forever," Romanoff added. IDEAS: Instead of oil-and-vinegar dressing and its typically 5-to-1 ratio of oil (at 120 calories per tablespoon) to vinegar, opt for a vinaigrette instead, which lowers the proportions as low as 3-to-1 oil to vinegar. Add herbs, salt and pepper to taste. Romanoff also suggests adding a splash of red wine vinegar to a finished pasta dish. Mustard Mustard's zingy intensity comes with zero to 5 calories per teaspoon. Think of it as free flavor, whether it's yellow, Dijon or brown. Markets are stocking a greater variety of flavored mustards, too, that will bring additional nuance to recipes. Some may be a bit higher in calories, but not much. IDEAS: Replace 1 teaspoon mustard for 1 tablespoon mayonnaise in a sandwich and you've saved yourself as many as 100 calories. (Not enough punch? Add another teaspoon.) When you're ready to slather butter on cooked vegetables, use a third as much and replace with mustard to taste. You also can make your own flavored mustard: Kathleen Daelemans, author of "Chef Kathleen's Cooking Thin Daybook: A 52-Week Plan to Lose Weight, Get Fit and Eat Right," adds fresh chopped dill or tarragon to honey Dijon mustard, then "paints" it on salmon, which she then bakes at 425 degrees. Ginger root The gnarly and intimidating look of ginger root belies its marvelous flavor, with its unique blend of citrus-meets-pepper. "It adds so much flavor to recipes," Daelemans said, adding that pickled ginger (sold in jars) brings the same flavor but with added convenience. IDEA: "Pickled ginger is fun to just add to salads--it's a surprising little bite and it's an easy thing to do," Daelemans said. Garlic-chili sauce You can find this low-calorie, high-powered Asian condiment, a combination of hot ground chilies, garlic and vinegar, in the ethnic aisles of most supermarkets and in Asian stores, Romanoff said. "You're going to use it for something you want to add heat to, and it has complexity because of all the chopped garlic in it," he explained. "It keeps for at least a year in the refrigerator and it's inexpensive. You get a lot of bang for your buck." IDEA: Add it--sparingly!--to soups, stir-fries, base sauces and marinades, Romanoff said. "You're going to get heat from it, the tanginess of vinegar from it, and obviously the savoriness of garlic," he said. Red pepper spread The zesty flavor of roasted red peppers forms the basis of these creamy spreads that are showing up in more markets. Typically, they have 15 calories per tablespoon--half the calories of onion dip. They're low in fat and healthful too. Italian and Middle Eastern markets typically sell many brands; Trader Joe's sells a dynamic roasted red pepper-and-eggplant spread and an Indian pinjur spread; we found a version by Bella Cucina at Treasure Island. IDEAS: Use red pepper spread instead of fatty dips; it's great with raw vegetables. Romanoff also uses it in lieu of pizza sauce, and tops it with "small amounts of an assertive cheese" such as feta, and caramelized onions. Fresh herbs Fresh herbs can be pricey, but a little goes a long way. They add brightness and punch to absolutely any dish they join. Each herb provides a different flavor, and it can be fun to buy a different fresh herb each time you go shopping and play with it throughout the week. It will enhance your cooking acumen too. IDEAS: Add a few leaves of basil to a sandwich or sprinkle chopped mint or tarragon into your salad--you won't need nearly as much mayonnaise or salad dressing. Fresh herbs should be added to the end of cooking, but there are exceptions: Sturdy rosemary can be added to a pot of stew or soup. Lemons Lemons bring a sunny splash of color and flavor; 1 tablespoon of the juice has about 5 calories. Its potent taste can be obtained from the zest (the colored, outer layer of the fruit) or the juice within. "Lemon adds brightness to any dish--and it has the kinds of flavor properties that spread throughout something," Romanoff said. "It gives [a dish] a whole overtone of citrus and acidity . . . rather than getting lost in a group of complex flavors." IDEA: "I love to slice them paper, paper thin and toss them into a salad just like a lettuce leaf," Daelemans said. She uses a V-slicer but a mandoline also can produce superthin slices. "Shave some Parmesan and dress the leaves with a drizzle of good-quality extra-virgin olive oil and cracked pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice."

Is Raw Food the way to go?

2006-03-06T12:14:00.000-05:00

Greg Atkinson takes a look at the claims of raw foods zealots that these items will allow you to "experience perfect health" and "a whole new concept of beauty," even "change our lives." Other claims include making you feel more "alive" and "sexy".

Atkinson says he has always been skeptical of these types of claims, and uses a speech by Dr. Richard Wrangham, professor of biological anthropology at Harvard University to really prove his point.

His lecture, "The Natural Cook: The Significance of Paleo Gastronomy," exploded once and for all — at least in my mind — the myth of a raw-food diet and its supposed superiority over a diet of cooked foods. "Every culture in the world relies on cooking, apparently because a raw-foodist lifestyle is simply inadequate for people living at subsistence level," he said. It's all well and good for people who can afford to pulverize, blend, semi-dehydrate and manipulate their food with countertop appliances, but when you're in the bush, a raw-food diet simply will not supply a human brain with the calories it needs to function. Even if it could, we would have to chew and swallow for something like 16 hours a day.

He went to say that fire...and cooking food with it, was one of the things that really set apart early man from his counterparts.

Oreo cookie minus trans fat?

2006-03-02T09:14:00.000-05:00

The Washington Post conducts a taste test to see whether the new trans-fat-free Oreo cookie can stand up to the original.

Here's what they came up with:

Our tasters found virtually no difference between the two. They praised the original for its good balance between the cream filling and the cookie, its attractive smell and its familiar taste. Trying the new trans-fat-free version, they sensed only slight differences -- a hint more salt and a slightly greater emphasis on the cream -- but found the cookies equal in sweetness, with similar mouth-feel to the filling. "I think you could pass both of them off as the same," said Klc.

Another article, this one also from the Post looks at whether some cookies and crackers really contain "whole grains" as their packaging would suggest.

Whole-grain Chocoate Chip Cookies

Merlot Sales Growth Sags - Blame 'Sideways'

2006-03-01T13:53:00.000-05:00

Mike Dunn of the Sacramento Bee has a look at Merlot wine, which after having souring sales since the early 1990's, had sales slow down significantly last year. Dunn admits that the slowdown can be attributed in part to the character Miles dissing Merlot in last years sleeper hit movie "Sideways".

He adds though that there is more to the decline in growth than the movie:

But something else could be happening here. Consumers likely are discovering that other red wines have more flavor, especially syrah, which often can be nearly as approachable in texture as merlot. In addition, after 15 years of drinking merlot, Americans may be ready to step up to red wines with more complexity and a more tannic spine.

He goes out and tries to find a Merlot that is still going to excite. He was on a Merlot panel at the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo International Wine Competition, and didn't find much to shout about. The ones that won the highest honors from them was the Toad Hollow Vineyards 2002 Russian River Valley Richard McDowell Vineyard Reserve Merlot ($16) and the reserve champion Joseph Phelps 2001 Napa Valley Merlot ($40)

I've had the Phelps...I believe it was part of the tasting seminar I attended with them back in August. Pretty impressive to this uneducated palate.

Storing Bread - Squeeze Air or Not?

2006-02-28T13:42:00.000-05:00

I've been storing my bread in the refrigerator for a while, I guess that stems from the summer time when it is really warm and it seems mold grows a lot faster. I've bought sprouted breads and so forth which instruct the consumer to store the product in the fridge.

In the Charlotte Observer, Kathleen Purvis answers a question from a reader regarding the storage of bread. Her main question is about air in the bag. The reader insists that air be left in the bread bag, while her husband always squeezes it all out. Purvis answers that you indeed want to get as much air out of the bag as possible when storing bread. (which I've always done)

The part that I learned from though, was the bread kept in the fridge generally goes stale faster than bread at room temperature. So here all along I was thinking that I was prolonging the life of my bread by keeping it cool, I was actually making it stale quicker. Hmmm.

Here's another quick page from a bread company about bread storage I found while looking at this topic.

Trendy Food of 2006 - Grits?

2006-02-27T13:44:00.000-05:00

Elizabeth Downer of the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette lists out grits as one of the hot food trends of this year. While grits have been a staple in the South for more than 200 years, they haven't been all that popular to the North.

She says that they are now being used by chefs all over the country to create comfort foods.

My best friend's father grew up in Georgia, and he used to make us cheese grits on a weekend morning. That was some seriously good stuff, I'm tellin' ya.

Here are a couple of receipes from the article which are likely close to that great breakfast item that I haven't had in over 10 years now.

BAKED CHEESE GRITS

I sometimes vary the original recipe by using shredded Monterey Jack cheese with jalapeno chilies. This is especially good as an entree side dish. Recipe can be doubled.

2 cups cooked grits (I use instant)
1 pound grated cheddar cheese
5 eggs, well beaten
1 can evaporated milk (I use fat-free) or light cream
1 tablespoon butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook grits according to directions on box. Stir in cheese, eggs and milk. Pour into buttered 2-quart baking dish. Bake one hour or until set.

Serves 8.

FRIED GRITS

Sunday morning breakfast at my grandmother's house frequently featured fried grits.

Cooked and chilled grits
1 cup seasoned flour (flour seasoned with salt and pepper)
2 beaten eggs
Saltine cracker crumbs
Butter for frying

Prepare the grits according to directions on the box using 1/2 cup of dry grits and the prescribed amount of water. Pour the cooked grits into a loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Slice the cold grits at 1/2-inch intervals and dip into seasoned flour, egg and then cracker crumbs. Fry in butter and serve with fried, poached or scrambled eggs.

No Waffling Here

2006-02-24T16:08:00.000-05:00

What is old is new these days, and nowhere is that as true as in the kitchen. Greg Atkinson in the Seattle Times looks at old waffle irons, which are suddenly trendy and in demand.

As he says:

Perhaps a waffle iron in the kitchen — like a pair of Adirondack chairs on the lawn — creates the illusion of leisure that we don't really have. The idea of making waffles evokes images of luxuriating over breakfasts in sunny rooms with clean curtains and crisp Sunday papers. And this new generation of waffle irons is Bauhaus-cool, with lines and finishes as slick and evocative as streamlined trains from the 1920s.

He recently pulled out a waffle iron from his cupboard which is old. Really old. Judging from the lack of a registered trademark on it, he estimates that it was made before 1909. And it is still perfectly functional.

They just don't make 'em like they used to.

Easy waffle recipe.

Black Truffles - Heaven From Earth

2006-02-23T13:51:00.000-05:00

Though I'm not likely to be dropping $140 for an ounce of black truffle, I read S. Irene Virbila's column in the Los Angeles Times this week with interest.

There is almost a mystical allure to the black truffle these days, and it seems any product with even a trace of it is priced through the roof. Close examination usually reveals no more than a speck of the truffle in the actual product.

Virbila talks about purchasing whole truffles (also in bulk) and putting them into omelets, chicken, even a baked potato.

At the farmers market that Sunday, I bought some free-range eggs and the minute the truffles arrived, I put them in a jar with the eggs. That way the eggs take in some of the truffle aromas and flavor. When you make scrambled eggs with those truffle-infused eggs, the taste is explosive; intensified, of course, when you add in more truffle, julienned. These truffles were beautiful, knobbly and coal black, a little smaller than golf balls, with all of their perfume intact. Every day that passes, though, they lose weight, flavor and aroma. Use them soon, or lose them. I had no trouble at all with that. One truffle went into the scrambled eggs, which we served, Ã la Chez Panisse, with rafts of country white from La Brea Bakery, cut inch-thick and lightly toasted, then rubbed with garlic and drizzled with a little olive oil. Alongside the saffron-colored eggs we served a pretty little salad of frisÃ©e dressed in red wine vinegar and olive oil. I took a bite of the eggs. I started to hum. And every subsequent bite elicited the same contented purring. In a restaurant, it would have cost four of us a fortune to indulge in anything laced with this amount of truffle. But we'd used just one of our truffles, which weighed in at a little more than an ounce. Divide the cost by four, and this sublime truffle hit seems almost reasonable.

And some more:

So what to do with a second truffle? Roast a chicken with some truffle slices tucked under the skin. We shaved six fine slices and slid them in under the breast. And as the chicken turned a dark gold in the oven, you could see the slices through the transparent skin, promising something delicious. In fact, the truffles lose much of their taste in the cooking. Most of the flavor comes from truffle butter whisked into the juices just before serving. Truffle butter? If I had just one truffle, I might be tempted to turn it all into truffle butter. Just mince up the truffle trimmings and fold them into softened unsalted to lightly salted butter, the best you can find. We used Double Devon Cream butter from Trader Joe's. Roll it up into a log and wrap in plastic film. It can then be frozen without losing any of the flavor. The proportion is about one part truffles to two parts butter. I used some a couple of days later to fold into a baked potato Â fantastic! You can toss fresh egg noodles or tagliarini in some of the truffle butter too. The simpler the better.

There's much more in the article. Plus these recipes:

- A Great Source for Fresh Black Truffles

- Truffle Butter

- Scrambled Eggs Panisse

- Guy Savoy's Lentil Ragout with Black Truffles

- Roast Chicken with Truffles and Truffle Butter

Vertical or prone? What's best position for (wine) storage?

2006-02-22T11:05:00.000-05:00

I thought this was an easy one. You always store wine on its side, right? You don't want the cork to dry out. Well, Paul Gregutt in the Seattle Times answers the question in a little more detail, letting us know that it is ok to store wine vertically...if you're going to use it within a year. He was also asked about how long you can keep Champagne.

My personal rule of thumb is that if I'm going to drink the bottle within a year, it's OK to stand it up, and I have shelves in my cellar for such "short-term" bottles. For wines that are truly going to be cellared over a period of years, horizontal is the best choice. Without seeing your wines, I cannot make an educated guess as to their condition after standing up for so long. However, even the advice about storing wines horizontally has some exceptions, and Champagne is one. I have read that some authorities flatly state that Champagne should be stored upright. In my experience, storing it on its side does no harm, but that is a purely subjective, nonscientific opinion. As for question No. 2, nonvintage Champagne should be consumed with two or three years of disgorging. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to find out when a particular bottle was disgorged.

Vintner's Lakeside Grill - Yountville CA

2006-02-17T16:50:00.000-05:00

Should You or Shouldn't You When it Comes to Fish?

2006-02-15T14:42:00.000-05:00

Marian Burros in the New York Times today has a very interesting article on a topic that has a lot of people confused these days.

We're constantly being told of the health benefits of eating fish. At the same time, we're warned about unsafe contaminants that some fish contain.

One contaminant, methylmercury, which can damage the nervous system and the brain in fetuses, infants and young children, is found in tuna, particularly albacore, or white meat. PCB's and dioxin, probable human carcinogens, are found in farmed salmon. But omega-3's, important nutrients in both types of fish, can prevent sudden heart attacks.

Tuna and Salmon are the two kinds of fish we're most commonly warned about. Coincidentally, those are also two of the most consumed varieties of fish out there as well.

Studies for both sides of the issue are discussed, and the article closes with the following statement:

But the public is really not faced with a Hobson's choice. It can always get plenty of omega-3's from canned wild salmon, cheap and available year-round and low in contaminants.

If case you're wondering, here is the definition of a "Hobson's choice" as given by Answers.com.

An apparently free choice that offers no real alternative.

Baking Artisan Breads at Home

2006-02-14T10:35:00.000-05:00

This article from Gwen Schoen in the Sacramento Bee tackles what can be an intimidating prospect for the Amateur, Part Time Gourmet...baking intricate looking Artisan Breads at home.

Yeast is one of the most difficult ingredients to balance and judge correctly. She looks at how the King Arthur Flour Co. is going across the country in an effort to educate home bakers on taking the intimidation factor out of yeast.

She talks to one of the one of the Kinig Arthur instructors, who shared a few tips.

One of the basics she teaches is how to judge the amount of flour called for in a recipe. For example, a recipe might list a range of 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 cups of flour. "The amount varies depending on the amount of moisture in the flour and the air," Hack said. "You always begin with the smaller amount of flour and gradually add more until the dough is the correct consistency. If you add too much, the bread will be heavy and dry. If you don't add enough, the dough will be dense and sticky inside. Experience will tell you when the dough feels right in your hands." Another problem beginners have is judging when the bread is done. Hack recommends using an instant-read thermometer. Most breads are done when they reach 190 degrees. Denser breads such as a hearth-style or whole-grain should be baked to 205 degrees.

There is also some information on how to best use whole grains.

"In most recipes, you can substitute whole-grain flour for about half of the amount called for in the recipes. Besides whole wheat, you can also add some interesting seeds and grains to most recipes. Try using oats, rye flakes or sunflower, poppy and sesame seeds. Usually you can use up to a cup of seeds for every 3 1/2 cups of flour in the recipe."

You know how when you buy one of those breads from the bakery and the best thing about it is the chewy crust. She tells you how this is done as well.

One important step in making rustic, artisan breads is using steam in the oven to make a chewy crust. It can be done by placing a cast-iron skillet in the oven with a small amount of hot water, or you can spray water inside the oven when you place the loaves of bread inside. "There are many tricks to creating steam, and you do need to be very careful," Hack said, "but steam is that step that makes rustic breads so good."

Sounds good to me!

Soup's on: The basics

2006-02-13T11:48:00.000-05:00

Emily Seftel of the Arizona Republic has been taking some cooking classes from Kitchen Classics in Phoenix. This past week she learned a lot about the making of soup from scratch. That would include making the stock from a carcass.

Here are some of the tips she got from the instructor:

• The basic principles for stock: Start the stock in cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer it gently. Skim it frequently and strain it carefully when it has finished cooking. Cool it quickly in an ice bath to help keep it fresh longer.

• The best bones for beef and veal stock are from younger animals. Shank bones are the most easily accessible.

• The best bones for chicken stock are from the neck and back, which contain many small bones.

• The best bones for fish stock are from lean fish such as sole, flounder and whiting.

• When adding vegetables to stock, a good ratio is 50 percent onions, 30 percent carrots and 20 percent celery.

The key to fine food

2006-02-10T14:07:00.000-05:00

Nick Galvin in the Sydney Morning Herald.

Galvin talks to Kumar Mahadevan, the chef and owner of Aki's in Woolloomooloo and Abhi's in North Strathfield. He says that good cooking is more than just the ingredients and the recipe.

"I can tell you exactly [what is in a dish] but it's not like a formula to make a cough mixture. It depends how much love you put in it." He also insists that you should always cook happy. "It's very important," he says. "Some people tell me that cooking relieves them of their tensions. I think this is true. When you cook you can really calm yourself but not when you have to serve 200 people; that's a different story."

The article ends with an appealing recipe for Scallops with tomato chutney.

Taste-Testing Store Bought Salsa

2006-02-09T12:37:00.000-05:00

Making the best of a bland situation

Boston Globe

There are many brands to choose from at the grocery store, though Tostitos seems to have ensured itself the most prominent spot, lined up on its own special shelf all the way down the chip aisle, right at eye level. We decided to stick to the big ones this time: Pace, Ortega, Tostitos, Old El Paso, and Newman's Own, with obnoxious talk show host Don Imus's thrown in for fun. (All of them are available at Shaw's and Stop & Shop.) The winner was one we had never tried before: Old El Paso picante. (Old El Paso also makes a ''Thick 'n Chunky Salsa," which is not as good as its picante. What's the difference between picante and salsa? Nobody seems to know for sure. Our resident Texan says there's none.) The Old El Paso was far from adored but notable for being, as one taster noted, the ''least hated" of the samples.

"Least hated" - Guess they're endorsing that you make your own Salsa....

Don't Toss That Teflon Pan -- Yet

2006-02-06T15:57:00.000-05:00

(Sorry we missed the Seattle side of Super Bowl food on Friday, it turned out to be a crazy day.)

There has been some talk of late that a certain chemical in Teflon-coated pans could actually be harmful to you. The Washington Post asked "Food 101" columnist and chemistry professor Robert L. Wolke for his take on the matter.

He tells us in part:

Teflon is microscopically smooth and nonporous (one of the reasons nothing sticks to it). Even if it does harbor trace amounts of PFOA, which is all anyone has suggested, the PFOA is unlikely to seep into food or escape into the air in kitchens -- unless, of course, an empty nonstick pan were abandoned on a hot burner, because above 600 degrees or so (a temperature rarely reached in cooking), the Teflon would begin to decompose into toxic fumes. Before we even see a nonstick pan in the store, its coating already has been heated to high temperatures during manufacturing, partly to get rid of any residual PFOA. In my opinion, PFOA in the environment probably came from factory emissions, perhaps during the high-temperature phases of manufacturing. That's certainly more plausible than blaming me for frying an egg in my nonstick pan.

He concludes that this really isn't anything that consumers need worry too much about.

What Steelers Fans are Eating For the Super Bowl

2006-02-02T10:53:00.000-05:00

(Tomorrow we'll have the Seattle version)

Super Sustenance The Food Network is taking it on the chin for the Super Bowl.

Box wines fit the bill for the big game Yes, indeed, here we go—with beverage recommendations to enjoy during the big fete for Super Bowl XL

Game plan: pretzels in first half, fondue in the second ...
What's the next best thing to being at the Super Bowl? You guessed it: being at a Super Bowl party. And what type of food best fits a Pittsburgh Steelers Super Bowl gathering? Obviously, you'll want something Steelers fans can nibble on while their eyes are glued to the TV.

Steelers/Seahawks rivalry reaches the kitchen
The moment the Steelers clinched its Super Bowl berth last Sunday, I ripped off an e-mail to my Seattle colleague, Hsiao-Ching Chou, food editor of the Seattle Post-Intelligencer.

Nibbles: Charities win when chefs cook in Detroit
Executive Chef Greg Alauzen from Eleven in the Strip District will team up with football great Andy Russell representing the Steelers at the 15th annual Taste of the NFL, Saturday at the Rock Financial Showplace near Detroit.

Food Network Super Bowl Page
(With Pittsburgh and Seattle Themed Foods)

MVPizza: What's your game-day fave?

2006-02-01T16:05:00.000-05:00

Super Bowl Sunday is the big pie's time to shine, and Gruyère, artichoke hearts, even Spam are ready to play

By DAI HUYNH Houston Chronicle

Pizza in one hand, remote control in the other and eyes glued to the quarterback on television. Sound familiar? More pizzas are sold on Super Bowl Sunday than any other day.

Some good background in this article on the history of pizza, and how it has evolved down through the decades and centuries.

Americans have been eating pizza since the first U.S. pizzeria, Lombardi's, opened in 1905 in New York. And if longevity is a testament to popularity, then know that Lombardi's is still making pizza on Spring Street in Manhattan. But the history of pizza goes back much further, and not to the Italians but to Greek traders in Naples. "They made a bread in the oven called the pita, which in Neapolitan dialect became pizza," Dolce Vita Pizzeria Enoteca chef-owner Marco Wiles said. "The first pizza was simple -- drizzle with oil and top with garlic," Wiles said. Tomatoes didn't leap atop pizzas until the mid-1700s. Originating in South America, they first were introduced to the English, then to the Italians by Catholic priests. This member of the nightshade family catapulted the poor man's pie onto the tables of wealthy Neapolitans. The popular pizza marinara was topped with chopped fresh tomatoes, garlic, oregano, olive oil and buffalo-milk mozzarella cheese.

I love pizza, but I'm making chili for the Super Bowl...

10 tips to being a better wine buyer

2006-01-27T09:40:00.000-05:00

By Bill Daley
Chicago Tribune

(abridged version)

1. Comparison shop, but don't let price be your only guide.

2. Consider second labels. Great wines can cost a fortune; less-great wines from the same house can offer plenty of taste for a lot less.

3. Knowledge is power, but did you realize it could be tasty, too? Take advantage of wine tastings conducted by wine shops.

4. Check if your wine shop offers a customer discount card.

5. If you really, really like a wine, consider buying a case or two.

6. Don't pour that half-empty bottle down the drain. Recork it and stow it in the refrigerator. The wine should be fine the next day.

7. Shop the bargain shelves and discount bins very carefully.

8. So-called big box or warehouse stores boast that their hefty buying power allows them to get goods at deeply discounted prices. And so they do, even with wines.

9. Experiment.

10. Buy stuff you like.

Just what do Bay Leaves DO anyway?

2006-01-26T11:02:00.000-05:00

Bay leaves add an important something, but what?—By Peggy Grodinsky
Houston Chronicle

Ask people to describe the taste of bay -- even a group of renowned herbalists -- and they may come up short. "It's hard to describe," said a momentarily stumped Bill Varney of Fredericksburg Herb Farm. "Gosh." "It's just another layer of flavor," said Champions resident Mary Versfelt, longtime member of the Herb Society of America and a cooking teacher who specializes in herbs. "I can't quite put my finger on it." The question elicited answers as wide-ranging as spicy, herbal, fennellike, pungent, subtle, balsamic, bittersweet and butterscotchy.

It's also important to make sure you note the difference between the two major leaves. California bay is often sold as Bay laurel, but they are not actually the same.

Among the reasons the taste of bay can be hard to pinpoint is that it often works as a "blending herb," according to Lois Sutton, Houston resident and education chair of the Herb Society of America. Blending herbs, she continued, "seem to bring together the flavor of other things. Parsley is a great blending herb. Dill can be a blending herb. Instead of all these discordant tastes, it seems to bring them together into a smooth flavor." Picture your spice cabinet as an orchestra. Bay is the viola. Unlike the showier violin (think cinnamon), it's an instrument few listeners can distinguish, and it rarely gets to play the melody. But without it, the orchestra's sound would be less complex. Bay is also categorized as a "simmering herb," meaning that it's typically added to a dish early in the cooking process and simmers or infuses in liquid so that its flavor emerges. Remember to remove the whole leaves before you eat the dish. Their sharp edges can perforate your insides.

Ouch.

Related Article:

Using Fresh Bay Leaves

Six simple rules for better, more satisfying wine drinking

2006-01-25T13:08:00.000-05:00

By Stephen Meuse, Boston Globe

Rule No. 1: Find a good local wine shop and be loyal to it.

Rule No. 2: Taste comparatively and often.

Rule No. 3: Learn to write a tasting note.

A note should be short, to the point, and useful. Name the wine completely, identify the vintage, then comment briefly on what you notice (color, aroma, flavors, texture, concentration, etc.).

Rule No. 4: Move up to case buying.

Rule No. 5: Read a good book.

For updates on what's happening in various regions from vintage to vintage, there's nothing like Dorling Kindersley's small format Wine Report series, edited by Tom Stevenson. The latest is Wine Report 2006 (about $15). For something more comprehensive if less nimble, try the ''New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia" (about $50) from the same publisher and editor. We find the ''Oxford Concise Wine Companion" (Oxford University Press, about $20), edited by Jancis Robinson, an indispensable ready reference. ''Essential Winetasting," by Michael Schuster, is simply the best on the subject (Mitchell Beazley, about $30).

Rule No. 6: You never get anywhere drinking mineral water.

Mexican - Finger-licking good

2006-01-24T13:17:00.000-05:00

A Mexican feast of tacos and delicious fillings is a joy to share.

Thomasina Miers - Times of London.

I've been addicted to Mexican food for about a year now...not many good places here on the East coast, but as Miers tells us, you can do it just well at home:

Tacos in Mexico are small, soft, pliable discs that you either roll into a cigar to use in place of a fork or spoon, or which you stuff with myriad combinations of fillings and spicy salsas. Taco stands are at every street corner in Mexico City with scores of different fillings and are the archetypal fast food. At home, you can take it more slowly and get as inventive as you like with the fillings. Try chargrilled prawns, pan-fried fish or chicken or thicker, more substantial, spicy stews, always ensuring that you have at least two salsas to spice up the dishes or cool them down, and a plate of ripe, sliced avocado. A good taco feast is delicious served with small glasses of any good-quality, aged tequila and matching small glasses of sangrita. Sangrita is like our classic Virgin Mary mix with a dash of orange juice and grenadine, plus plenty of extra Tabasco. It is highly spiced and slightly sweet, which complements the tequila beautifully. The aim is to sip the tequila and sangrita as you while away time feasting, enjoying the flavours of the food and the lively conversation.

A number of recipes for those fillings follow, including:

Steak tacos
Chorizo-potato taco filling
Avocado salsa
Roast tomato salsa

Don't let boredom win against the grain

2006-01-20T15:17:00.000-05:00

A new grain, or new recipes with grains you're tired of, will have you eating healthy again.

By Mary Vuong
Houston Chronicle

We'll stick with our theme this week which has been Whole Grains/Superfoods.

When the USDA updated its Dietary Guidelines in 2005, it urged Americans to consume at least three 1-ounce servings of whole grains each day. So healthy eaters stocked up on oatmeal and whole-wheat bread. To liven up those virtuous but boring oats at breakfast, they sprinkled on cinnamon and added bits of dried fruit. For lunch they stuck lean cold cuts between two slices of good-for-you bread. But it's been 12 months, and some of us can't stomach another spoonful. We crave variety in our whole grains, and some fresh, easy recipes.

So good tips throughout the article about preparing these whole grains. Here are a few:

If you're buying a manufactured product, such as bread, check the ingredients. The first should be "whole wheat" or another whole grain. Look for bread with at least 2 grams of fiber per slice, Juarez says. Fiber also keeps you feeling full longer.

and

Eating grains whole can take some getting used to, so start slowly (your taste buds and digestive system will thank you). If you usually eat white rice, mix in a bit of brown to get acquainted with the flavor. Do the same with white and whole-wheat couscous and other pastas. Over time, you can increase the whole-to-refined ratio. Grains typically should be rinsed, then added to boiling water, covered and simmered. Substituting chicken stock or vegetable broth for the water and toasting the kernels in a pan with butter or oil, as you would a pilaf, also kick up the flavor.

and finally:

If you're preparing grains for a recipe, double the batch and save the remainder to add to salads and soups, to stuff tomatoes and bell peppers or to layer in a casserole. Not sure what to do with plain grains? Any of the following will wake them up: vegetables, dried fruit, nuts, fresh herbs, a squirt of citrus. For the cook comfortable with the basics of whole-grain cooking, Pope suggests experimentation. How about a risotto with farro, or a cake incorporating quinoa? Baking with whole grains can be challenging, though. Substitute gradually. "Start with replacing about a third to half of the flour in your favorite recipe with whole-wheat flour," Speck says. "This will usually allow you to leave the rest of the recipe unchanged." The results will not be as fluffy, she adds, "but they have a rich, nutty flavor that you will not find in white-flour goods."

The Spreadsheet Diet

2006-01-19T12:51:00.000-05:00

How a Personal Chef Got His High-Powered Client to Embrace The Whole Grains We All Need.

By Ed Bruske
Special to The Washington Post

Picture a spreadsheet, a kitchen Excel, with grains on one axis and a variety of companion ingredients -- vegetables, herbs, nuts, marinated foods, vinegars, olive oil -- on the other. By moving across the spreadsheet, picking ingredients as you go, you can create pilafs and salads that put once-scorned nutritious foods within easy reach.

Spreadsheet Categories

Recipes that top the charts

Still more on Superfoods

2006-01-17T11:59:00.000-05:00

13 Superfoods from Michael van Straten on Organicfood.co.uk:

1 Apples

2 Avocado Pears

3 Bananas

4 Cabbage

5 Carrots

6 Chicken Soup

7 Flax Seeds

8 Garlic

9 Oats

10 Oily Fish

11 Onions

12 Potatoes

13 Soya

Explanations on each are of course included in the article.

Tasty ways to fit 'superfoods' into your diet

2006-01-13T14:13:00.000-05:00

Karin Welzel, Pittsburgh Union-Tribune

More buzz on "Superfoods". It's early yet, but I think "Superfoods" might be the eating trend of 2006.

This article is looking more at Whole Grains instead of the other foods we looked at last week from the San Francisco Chronicle. Here's some tips on getting whole grains into your diet:

The U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends these tips to help add whole grains to your daily diet. Substitute a whole-grain product for a refined product, such as whole-wheat bread for white bread, or brown rice instead of white rice. It's important to replace the whole-grain products for the refined one, rather than adding the whole-grain product. Try brown rice or whole-wheat pasta. Stuff brown rice into baked green peppers or tomatoes, and use whole-wheat macaroni in macaroni and cheese. Think mixed dishes: Add barley to vegetable soup or stews, bulgur wheat in casseroles and stir-fries. Create a whole-grain pilaf with a mixture of barley, wild rice, brown rice, broth and spices. You can stir in toasted nuts or chopped dried fruit. Use whole-wheat or oat flour for up to half of the flour in pancake, waffle, muffin or other flour-based recipes. You might need to add a bit more leavening. Use whole-grain bread or cracker crumbs in meatloaf. Try rolled oats or a crushed unsweetened whole-grain cereal as breading for baked chicken, fish, veal cutlets or eggplant parmesan. In stead of croutons in salad, use unsweetened whole-grain ready-to-eat cereal, or substitute it for crackers with soup. Freeze leftover cooked brown rice, bulgur or barley. Heat and serve it later as a quick side dish. Try a whole-grain snack chip, such as baked tortilla chips Snack on popped popcorn, limiting salt and butter.

Some good ideas there...

For a good scramble, just be gentle

2006-01-12T14:23:00.000-05:00

Eggs pampered with low heat and patience make a whole new dish

If you slow things down a bit, you can turn scrambled eggs into something spectacular: Cooked very slowly, and stirred constantly, scrambled eggs can be a dish that's creamy, rich and luxurious enough to serve as a first course at an elegant dinner.

This article reminded me that James Bond creator Ian Fleming was a huge fan of scrambled eggs. He even had agent 007 eating them on several occasions throughout the series, at all times of day and night.

He even told us how he liked them prepared:

From the short story 007 in New York in the book Thrilling Cities by Ian Fleming.

Scrambled Eggs James Bond.

For four individualists: 12 fresh eggs Salt and pepper 5-6 oz. of fresh butter. Break the eggs into a bowl. Beat thoroughly with a fork and season well. In a small copper (or heavy bottomed saucepan) melt four oz. of the butter. When melted, pour in the eggs and cook over a very low heat, whisking continuously with a small egg whisk. While the eggs are slightly more moist than you would wish for eating, remove the pan from heat, add rest of butter and continue whisking for half a minute, adding the while finely chopped chives or fines herbes. Serve on hot buttered toast in individual copper dishes (for appearance only) with pink champagne (Taittinger) and low music.

Sounds good to me, (I've actually made them according to those directions) though that is a lot of butter...

Draft resolution: Harpoon, Legal Sea Foods cook up beer-inspired dishes

2006-01-11T10:53:00.000-05:00

By Kerry J. Byrne, Boston Herald

Al Marzi wants to change the way the Boston culinary community thinks about beer.
Like many beer lovers, the Harpoon Brewery brewmaster is often frustrated when he goes out for dinner. The United States may have more breweries than any other country, but when Marzi sits down at a restaurant, he’s typically handed a menu and an extensive wine list. If he asks for a beer, servers often have no idea what’s available. And when they do know, the beer selection is often unimaginative and rarely complements the cuisine.

So Harpoon and Legal Seafoods have teamed up for a beer inspired dinner. A couple of recipes are included in the article.

HARPOON HIBERNIAN ALE SHORT RIBS

LEGAL SEA FOODS CLAM CHILI

Add the traditions of the Korean family table to your repertoire

2006-01-10T10:18:00.000-05:00

By Kathy Casey, Seattle Times

I don't think I've ever really had Korean food, at least as a full meal. This article has the author experiencing foods selected from the Korean New Year's celebration, which takes place on Jan 29th.

Here's the menu, with recipes linked:

Her middle name is skinny

2006-01-09T13:28:00.000-05:00

Food editor avoids the hazards of her job by following 15 healthy tips

Peggy Grodinsky Houston Chronicle.

1. Stop when you are full.

2. Eat breakfast and make it count.

3. Don't skip meals.

4. Don't keep food in your home that you find irresistible.

5. Exercise.

6. Stay away from processed foods,

7. Eat locally grown fruits and vegetables in season.

8. Buy the best.

9. Corollary to No. 8. For the most part, excepting milk and yogurt, I avoid reduced-fat products.

10. Eliminate guilt.

11. Avoid soda, even diet soda.

12. Make dessert earn its keep.

13. Share dessert when dining out.

14. Remember, more is coming.

15. I avoid soda (see No. 11), except when I don't. Nothing suits a burger or a pizza like soda -- well, possibly beer. As somebody once said: Everything in moderation, including moderation.

As usual, these are just the main points, go to the full article to read the "fleshed out" points.

Super Foods

2006-01-06T09:49:00.000-05:00

The San Francisco Chronicle has a two part series on "Super Foods". They are defined this way:

These are foods with such high levels of nutrients and goodness that we would do well to include them in our diets as often as we can. Antioxidants, phenols, soluble fiber, fatty acids -- they're all there, with more superfoods being discovered nearly every day.

This theory is also a big part of the new Sonoma Diet which is the latest craze sweeping the diet world. (As evidenced by the banner above.)

Marlena Spieler has the first article, entitled "Super Foods to the Rescue". She gives an overview of the various foods and how they work.

Carol Ness has the second article, "These 10 top nutritional performers can transform your diet -- and possibly your life."

These are the top ten she lists, with more information on each within the article:

Apples
Avacados
Beans
Blueberries
Dark Chocolate
Kiwis
Oats
Spinach
Walnuts
Yogurt

Those are only in alphabetical order, not in order of importance.

The articles are worth the read.

Brown Rice and Whole Grains from the Boston Globe

2006-01-05T11:17:00.000-05:00

The Boston Globe has a series of articles and recipes this week revolving around healthier grains, such as brown rice, quinoa, and bulgar. Whole grains were a huge food topic in 2005, and this series addresses some of the issues people are having in trying to adopt those foods into their diet. a big perception is that these grains take a long time to cook, which in our busy world, doesn't fit the "30 minute meals" lifestyle.

The lead article in the pack is Express Grain, which tells us that these grains can be prepared quickly and in a variety of tasty ways.

Leigh Belanger tells us a little about brown rice and some tips on buying it and how to use it.

Recipes from the series:

Fried (Brown) Rice

Brown Rice the Long Way

Bulgar salad on hearts of romaine

Jeweled brown rice salad

Pilaf-style coarse bulgar

Pilaf-style quinoa

Vegetable stir fry

Pressure cooker brown rice

The Winter Cook - Mac & Cheese

2006-01-04T10:38:00.000-05:00

Macaroni and Lots of Cheese
By Julia Moskin

With the cold weather firmly entrenched here in the Northeast, Moskin looks at one of the true comfort foods of the region...or any region, Macaroni and Cheese. After looking at a number of lder recipes, which are really Macaroni with cheese sauce, rather than real cheese, she sets out to find the ultimate receipe.

Some of her thoughts:

The macaroni must not be slippery and soft, but firm and substantial. This is not the time to bring out your whole-wheat penne and artisanal orecchiette: elbow pasta is the way to go.
One of the most surprising recipes I tried called for uncooked pasta. Full of doubt, I mixed raw elbow noodles with a sludge of cottage cheese, milk and grated cheese. The result was stunning: the noodles obediently absorbed the liquid as they cooked, encasing themselves in fluffy cheese and a crust of deep rich brown.
The last decision - to top or not to top - is easily dispensed with. Resist the temptation to fiddle around with bread crumbs, corn flakes, tortilla chips and other ingredients that have nothing to do with the dish. When there is enough cheese in and on top of your creation, a brown, crisp crust of toasted cheese will form naturally. There is nothing more delicious.

Recipes:

Creamy Macaroni and Cheese

Crusty Macaroni and Cheese

Bar basics: Stocking up for the party

2005-12-29T13:17:00.000-05:00

Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

With many parties going on this weekend, this article tells you what you need to have on hand for a great cocktail party.

Categories are broken down into Liquor, Equipment, Garnishes and Mixers and Condiments.

Here's the liquor list, for the others, you'll have to visit the article...

Liquor

Bourbon
Blended whiskey
Scotch
Vodka
Gin
Rum
Tequila
Dry vermouth
Sweet vermouth
Beer
Wine
Other schnapps, liqueurs and brandies such as Cointreau, Grand Marnier, Sour Apple Pucker, etc.

What's in your bar?

Maine woman's whoopie pies made a whopping business

2005-12-27T14:45:00.000-05:00

By Glenn Adams, Associated Press

RICHMOND, Maine -- Just more than a decade ago, Amy Bouchard drew on her love for baking to create a business in her kitchen making whoopie pies. In those days, she would crank out three at a time.

Now, she churns out 5,000 to 7,000 of the sweet Wicked Whoopies each day, shipping them all over the country and beyond.

The business has outgrown its bakery in a converted fishing goods shop and will double in size when it moves to a new site in January.

The business was born and christened Isamax (IZE-uh-max), from a mixture of her two children's names, Isabella, now 13, and Maxx, 19.

Isamax Web Site

I'm seriously considering purchasing a dozen of the Chocolate Chip Whoopie Pies....

Rib roasts - beef, pork, lamb - are a cut above

2005-12-23T13:47:00.000-05:00

Karen Fernau
The Arizona Republic

1) Prime rib

To cook, preheat the oven to 550 degrees. Cover the roast and cook for 15 minutes to seal in the juices and flavor. Reduce cooking temperature to 350 degrees and cook the roast about 25 to 30 minutes a pound.

Remove the cover for the last 15 minutes. Use a meat thermometer to test the roast for how you prefer to serve it. Rare is 120-130 degrees on a meat thermometer; medium-rare is 130-140 degrees.

2) Rack of lamb

To cook, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Meanwhile, heat a large, deep pan over medium-high heat on the stovetop. Lightly coat with olive oil and sear the lamb on all sides. Remove and place in roasting pan and cook in the oven for eight to 12 minutes, or until slightly less than the desired degree of doneness.

3) Crown roast of pork

To cook a crown roast, place an empty, clean can with paper removed in the middle of the roast. The can acts as a "chimney" and helps preserve the shape of the roast. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place roast in the center of a roasting tray or roasting rack. Roast pork about 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours, or until pork has reached an internal temperature of 160 degrees on a meat thermometer.

For each of these, you want to allow the meat to "rest" before cutting and serving.

You'll also see that we have a new look here...hope you enjoy it!

If It's Holiday Time, It Must Be Eel Season!

2005-12-22T12:44:00.000-05:00

By Frank J Prial, NY Times

Riiiight....it MUST be Eel season...

That's the first thing I think of when I consider this time of year.

Don't you?

Holiday time is eel time," said Mr. Sloup, who sells his catch to wholesalers, individual markets and restaurants in Chinatown.
"Eels are a traditional dish around now, especially among Italians. Then, at the end of January is the Chinese New Year. The Chinese love eels. So do the Koreans and the Vietnamese, and that market is exploding in New York."
David Pasternack, the chef and an owner of the seafood restaurant Esca, agreed.
"Eels are excellent right now, and they are popular," said Mr. Pasternack, who added that he likes to fry eels and serve them with a little tomato and chili. "In fact, with the Asian market growing all the time, it's getting harder and harder to find them."

The article goes on to tell of some the history of catching eels and using them for food in cultures around the world and locally in NY.

Turkey - Aussie style

2005-12-20T11:22:00.000-05:00

By Steve Manfredi,
Sydney Morning Herald

Maintaining the succulent breast is paramount and, really, there is no way around it unless you separate dark meat from light. In fact, the legs can be roasted one or two days before, then stripped for the salad. All that's left to do is stuff the breast and roast it off the bone in just over an hour on Christmas morning.

Turkey is good with
Butter; olive oil; garlic; lemon; thyme; parsley; rosemary; sage; coriander; fennel; cumin; paprika; bacon; prosciutto; onion; celery; carrot; potatoes; walnuts; pine nuts; chestnuts; almonds; mushrooms; truffles; peas; beans; mustard; olives; anchovies; capers; wine.

A couple of nice recipes follow...

Spices of the Season

2005-12-19T15:03:00.000-05:00

By Liz Atwood

Baltimore Sun reporter

This article has a look at the spices we most commonly associate with this time of year:

Allspice
Allspice comes from the dried, unripened fruit of a small evergreen tree in the Carribbean and has a flavor suggesting a blend of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. It was exported to Europe in the early 1600s as a substitution for cardamom. It is used in seasonings, sauces, sausages, ketchup, jams, pumpkin, gravies, roasts, hams, baked goods and teas.

Cinnamon
Cinnamon comes from the dried inner bark of various evergreen trees belonging to the genus Cinnamomum. Cinnamomum burmannii is primarily imported from Indonesia and is the most common form of cinnamon in the United States. Vietnam is the source for Cinnamomum loureirii, sometimes called Saigon cinnamon. Cinnamomum zeylanicum, grown in Sri Lanka, is actually "true cinnamon."

Cloves
Cloves are the dried, unopened, nail-shaped flower buds of the evergreen Syzygium aromaticum. Indonesia is the largest producer of cloves, although those of Madagascar are considered superior. Cloves were extremely costly in the past and wars were fought to secure exclusive rights to the profitable clove business.

Ginger
Ginger is the dried knobby-shaped root of the perennial herb Zingiber officinale. The plant grows 2 to 3 feet tall. Once the leaves of the plant die, the thick roots, about 6 inches long, are dug up. China and India are the principal sources of ginger. During the 15th century, gingerbread became a gift of love and respect.

Nutmeg
Nutmeg is the seed of the fruit that grows on the tree Myristica fragans. Nutmeg blends well with other spices and is found in the ethnic cuisines of Italy, the Caribbean, France, India, Germany, Scandinavia, Greece, Latin America and the Middle East.

Holiday Match-Making

2005-12-16T14:30:00.000-05:00

By Paul Gregutt - Seattle Times

An interesting look at putting together food/wine combinations:

I take a practical approach to wine and food pairing, especially during the holidays.

First, I look for opportunities to pull out special wines — Champagne for starters, richer white wines for opening courses, older red wines for main courses and something decadent and sweet with dessert.

Second, I try to include as many different wines as possible. A half bottle per wine-drinking guest is a good starting point, but as long as no one feels pressured to finish every glass or empty every bottle, it's fine to up that to a bottle per person. Have a dump bucket placed conveniently nearby, and let guests know it's perfectly all right to use it. And remember that in any mixed group, there will be some who really don't like white wines and some who really can't drink red, so you'll want to offer a bottle or two of each.

He then goes through suggestions for various types of food, such as:

SALTY/BRINY

Recommended: A Spanish cava from a value producer such as Codorníu or Freixenet.

SPICY/HOT

Recommended: Cermeño Tinto 2004; $11. For spicy meat dishes, this Spanish red's bright, spicy fruit will work well.

VINEGARY/ACIDIC

Recommended: Pedroncelli 2004 "East Side Vineyards" Sauvignon Blanc; $10. This new release is a knockout, ripe and juicy with pineapple/grapefruit flavors.

GREEN/VEGETAL

Recommended: Duck Pond 2003 Chardonnay; $9. Soft and tropical, this barrel-fermented Columbia Valley wine will be just right with light cream sauces.

SWEET

Recommended: Alice White 2005 Shiraz; $7. The best of the Alice White wines, its lightly sweet, fresh and plummy fruit flavors will handle sweet fruit or tomato sauces, barbecue or pizza.

There are further explanations/descriptions of each category in the article...

Boston's tea party

2005-12-15T12:03:00.000-05:00

On the anniversary of that other tea party, local sippers enjoy a variety of tea traditions

By Lise Stern, Boston Globe

The article lists out four places in Boston where you can have the tea "experience", each one a little bit different.

At one of them, you can be led in a tea tasting...where the host will have you sample various brews, and give you background on the harvesting, history and preparation of each one.

Holiday dishes from the '50s, '60s enjoy resurgence

2005-12-14T15:09:00.000-05:00

Party mix and cheese balls: kitsch or classic?

By Nancy Stohs

Two holiday classics from the midcentury era — Crown Jewel Dessert (also known as Broken Window Glass Cake) and Green Bean Casserole — turn 50 this year.
The sparkly dessert from Jell-O features cubes of green, orange and red gelatin, stirred into a mixture of syrupy red gelatin and whipped topping before being chilled again for serving in squares with more whipped topping.

The green bean bake is notable for its simplicity: green beans, mushroom soup, milk, pepper, french-fried onions. (The Campbell's recipe adds soy sauce.) You can find it on every can of French's french fried onions, or go to www.frenchs.com for the original recipe and variations.

Come fry with me

2005-12-13T13:15:00.000-05:00

Fritto misto, the crisp and golden 'mixed fry' that's an Italian staple, is popping up at restaurants all over L.A. -- and it's perfect for a cocktail party.

By Donna Deane, Times Staff Writer

Maybe you love perfect thin-sliced onion rings, those seriously flavored, crisp-coated tangles. Maybe you're a tempura fan, delighting in the tender, buttery texture of a thin, lightly fried slice of winter squash in its delicate golden brown wrapping.

Some tips on preparing:

Cut vegetables and seafood into pieces small enough to cook through completely without burning on the outside.
Heat the oil while you're preparing the ingredients. Dip them in milk or buttermilk, then flour or semolina or bread crumbs. Arrange the dredged vegetables and seafood on a tray so they are ready for frying.
A countertop fryer is a wonderful tool and the easiest route. Its thermostatic control maintains the temperature of the oil throughout the frying process.
Peanut oil is one of the best oils to use for frying because of its high smoke point. Pure olive oil, safflower oil, grape seed oil and corn oil are also good choices.
Cook similarly sized pieces that will have similar cooking times in the same batch. Add just a few items at a time to the hot oil. Don't overload the fryer.

When the mature bird proves to be much more attractive

2005-12-12T13:06:00.000-05:00

By Jill Dupliex, London Times.

It's certainly not too early to be planning your next Turkey dinner. This article in the Times of London starts you today (Last Friday actually) and takes you day-by-day, hour-by-hour through the selection and preparation of your turkey, along with stuffing and gravy/stocks. There is also a recipe for Roast turkey with bacon.

When selecting your Turkey, they offer this advice:

Order your turkey. Make it a good one. It’s worth going beyond the supermarket chiller cabinet to find superior eating quality and real old-fashioned flavour in a slowly reared, mature bird raised in low-intensity, free-range conditions, hung for around two weeks, and sold fresh, not frozen.

Shortcuts to a Latino Christmas

2005-12-08T12:56:00.000-05:00

San Francisco Chronicle, by Jacqueline Higuera McMahon

For another view of traditions for this time of year...

I cannot write about the holidays without longing for all the dishes that my mother, grandmother and company prepared year after year. No one could imagine a Christmas without the red enchiladas, huge tamales filled with chile colorado and olives, and the empanadas from Grandmama's Chilean part of the family.

Some good recipes follow...

Cookie master: Five easy steps to holiday-baking perfection

2005-12-07T10:56:00.000-05:00

By Linda G. Kincaid
Boston Herald

Sure, you'd like to bake some cookies for that party later this month, but you just know that you're not going to have the time to make them that day with everything else going on around you.

This article outlines some steps you can take in advance so that you can easily have those fresh cookies for that occasion. There are even several recipes included.

Here are the steps listed, they are of course, fleshed out in detail in the article.

Step 1: PLAN
Step 2: MIX
Step 3: FREEZE THE DOUGH
Step 4: BAKE
Step 5: FINISH
STORE